Chapter Twenty-four

Sages of South India


We seem inclined to place the world's sages in the immemorial past, so that our logical minds can dismiss their histories as myths with a few embellishments. Nevertheless, even in modern times, every century Bharat has engendered many incredible spiritual sages; most of them are in the predominate religion of Hinduism, but, remarkably, they exist in both Islam and Jainism also. Already we have met two Hindu sages, Sri Aurobindo and Sri Ramana Maharshi, who both died in the early 1950's.

I was quite intrigued to learn that there had been a Tamil sage who lived in a village near Pondy in the early 1900's. Revered by the local Christians and Moslems as well as the Hindus, Swami Ramalingam taught that ALL reduces to Light; therefore, there can be no real difference between substances, whether they be physical or mental. Note that the Hindus always include mind and emotions in the material world.

A poor Brahman boy, the future saint, Swami Ramalingam practiced meditation, along with memorizing and chanting of the Vedic scriptures. One day, when he must have been in a relaxed state, he looked into an ordinary mirror in his room and saw the image of a deity. An ordinary person may have thought, "gee, I am going crazy," or "someone is playing a trick"; thereby, dismissing the event. However, his level of consciousness was raised to such a subtle level that he realized that he and the image were one. They were one and the same. He was the deity in a grosser manifestation.

That realization removed his veil of ignorance to such an extent that he began receiving extraordinary revelations. On special occasions, he was invited to give lectures to his elder brethren. What I saw of his writings were quite off-the-wall: Long discourses recounting all the many universes, galaxies and worlds, including how they were created and connected. Long, long lists—any audience other than elder Brahman brethren would have "slept off," as we say here.

One bright day, when Swami Ramalingam was still a young man, in his mid-thirties, he realized that no one had understood a word he had taught. Further, he reasoned that they were not likely to do so in the future. He told everyone that he had ascertained that his work was ineffective to them, so he was just going to bow out. In the immitable style of Hindu sainthood, he told them he was going into his little hut (without food or water) and not to disturb him for thirty days. Indians being Indians could not abandon anyone, certainly not a saint, certainly not for thirty days. After only two weeks, a couple of devotees broke into the hut. They found no one there. The police were called in, but thorough investigations revealed no body, and no evidence of foul play.

Indian history is replete with such stories. I visited a temple outside Poona in 1979, where Shivaji, the most revered Marathi [one from Maharastra state] saint of all time, had ended his life by disappearing into a stone that still remains in the temple compound.


Since the site of Ramalingam's miracles is close, I take a bus from Pondy to Vadalur where he lived. First, I visit the small museum that has small dioramas that portray the major events in his life. Then I sit quietly in the small chapel to wait for the daily service at 11:00 a.m. To a small audience of only six, the priest begins the ceremony by removing one of the seven curtains, or veils, that obstruct the eternal divine light. Since this is an ordinary day, only three of the curtains are removed. Only at the winter solstice are all seven curtains removed to reveal the Eternal Flame.

I decide I better eat before getting on the bus for Kumbakonam. After treading up and down the main street row of shop-stalls, really hovels, I finally enter the most likely hole-in-the-wall cafe. Of course, I am the only female customer. I explain that I want vegetarian food.

"Not possible," I am told.

"That man has some vegetables; just give me of those," I instruct.

"Oh, yes, that is possible."

"Then give me some rice too."

While I eat, I chat with the friendly proprietor and a couple of the diners in kindergarten English.

As I am leaving the cafe, a man is entering. I am taken aback because he looks at me with such disdain that I think, this must be a true "maha-chauvinist."

"She comes from the ashram to eat meat in a Moslem hotel," he plainly voices his complaint as he disappears behind the door.

I had not realized that these were Moslems. Neither had I realized that you only ate meat in Moslem hotels. His assumption that I am from an ashram must be because of my simple unbleached homespun sari; others have drawn the same conclusion. I wonder if his comrades inside will inform him of the ordeal they went through to give me a vegetarian lunch.

I nearly miss the express bus for Kumbakonam. Not because I am late; I have been waiting 30 minutes when a ramshackled, beat-up contraption arrives. I hesitate, this can't be the express bus. To be sure, I step onto the bottom step and state that I am waiting for the express bus to Kumbakonam.

"This is the express bus," the driver assures me.

Oh, dear, this is the express bus, I resign myself and climb aboard. Expecting the worst, I am pleasantly surprised. The bus actually has the lounge-type seats of the long distance buses.

"But there are no empty seats."

"In the back," the driver directs me.

"Madam, here's a seat." An elderly man of ample girth has commandeered one and one-half seats for himself. The two men behind him are now pointing to the empty half of a seat and insisting I take it. I squeeze in and close my eyes. I will not be able to see anything out the window, so I may as well relax.

When we arrive in Kumbakonam, I take one look out the window and panic. All I can see are simple mud huts. I doubt I will be able to find a decent place to spend the night here. I better stay on this bus, find a town with a hotel, and come back tomorrow, I resolve.

"Does this bus go on to Tanjavore?" I inquire of the seated passengers.

"No, you'll have to change buses."

I accept my fate and descend the dusty steps into the chaos of passengers, buses, bicycle rickshaws and chuck holes. Upon spotting a big "INFORMATION" sign, I immediately perk up. Well, well, this is a new twist—information available at a village bus station, I heave a sigh of relief. Then I approach the dark hole in a wall and inquire of the two men sitting on rickety folding chairs if they know of a Swami Rama. They debate back and forth for a few minutes, but nothing concrete emerges from the banter. Next I ask about the tourist office. Again some discussion follows in Tamil.

"Oh, yes—good. You can take an auto to the tourist office where you can get information."

Forget the swami for now, I tell myself. I will be content with info about a hotel, for I still can see nothing but thatched-roofed huts in every direction. One of the men kindly escorts me to an auto rickshaw and tells the driver in Tamil to take me to the tourist office. We zoom off as if he knows where he is going. However, we arrive at a large residence.

I remark innocently, "No, the tourist office."

Only then does he insist, looking me straight in the eyes, in his broken English, "Tourist office idliya." No tourist office! And he is right, there is no tourist office in Kumbakonam. It's most likely he helped me avoid a hassle, for service at the tourist offices is notoriously poor. The joke among the foreign tourists is that it is a case of "no chief and too many Indians."

So I am quite content that he has found what looks like a place to stay. Certainly, it's a step in the right direction. I pay him and he disappears around the corner.

When I enter the large, wide verandah of the comfortable, clean bungalow, only one person is visible: a sadhu-type, with his matted hair in long, wild jadas and red paan-stained lips, seated cross-legged on a wooden bed near the entrance. Fortunately, he speaks enough English to tell me that rooms are available here and the owner will return in 30 minutes.

The lodge faces a huge bathing tank—as big as a city block. At the four corners and the four mid-points of each side are small peaked pavilions. I cross the street and sit on the bank of steps near some women who are bathing, washing clothes, and dipping their babies in the cool water. Their system for public bathing without exposing themselves is well worked out. I watch one woman out of the corner of my eye as she first removes her blouse, while she holds the sari around her body. Then she pulls her petticoat up over her breasts and secures it by tying it tightly. Next she drops her sari inch by inch as she enters the water. She soaps—mostly exposed parts—then leaves the water with the wet petticoat clinging lightly to her body. One lady takes a turmeric root and rubs it on the wet granite step, grinding it into the bright yellow paste that she applies to her face. They are so engrossed with their tasks they do not seem to notice me. It's such a lovely spot. I resolve to come back in the morning to feed the tiny minnows that are nibbling at my toes.

Meanwhile, thirty minutes have passed, so I return to the lodge. The owner/manager has just returned with a small boy carrying a satchel of books. They both gaze at me with a blank stare. When I ask about a room, he immediately declares, "No, no. No rooms available," and exits into a back room behind a closed door. I see that I am dealing with a brick wall—Brahman style, so I pick up my suitcase and start down the steps.

On second thought, I pause and turn to ask the sadhu who is still sitting on the day bed, "Sir, do you know of a Swami Rama here in Kumbakonam?"

"No, I don't think so," he honestly seems to ponder the question.

"He is an old man, over 90 years old, and is a Punjabi."

"Oh, yes. You must mean Ram Sadhu. He stays on the other side of the river in Kottaiyur. You can catch the #1 bus around the corner. It will take you straight there."

"Thank you very much, sir. This is very helpful." For once I have a feeling I won't have to get a second opinion.

When I turn the corner, I am most happy to see a row of several modern hotels ahead on the dusty road. The first one I pick is only 30 Rps. per night, just my price. When I reach my room, I immediately take a cold bath—no hot water in the afternoon—and lie down for a rest. It seems as if I have been on the road for days instead of hours. I can find the holy sage first thing in the morning, I tell myself as I drift off.

At sunrise the next morning, I return to the tank with puffed rice to feed the minnows. They practically take the food right out of my hand. Two kingfishers, the black and white variety, entertain me with their great diving feats: spot a movement, hover in suspension, hover, hover, hover—now, plunge. They emerge with a silver sliver of a fish in the beak; they never miss.

I later find out that this is the famous tank. According to legend, a kumbha, a large water pot, happened to appear here after a big flood. Lord Siva pierced the pot with an arrow, allowing its contents to flow out to create this sacred tank. A big festival commemorates the occasion every twelve years, when the waters of the Ganges are said to flow directly into the tank.

After savoring my favorite breakfast of idlis and coconut chutney at the hotel, I figure it is late enough to drop in on an ashram. I inquire from the desk clerk the whereabouts of the #1 bus stop and am directed to a flag pole up the street. After a short wait, I squeeze onto a bus that contains at least fifty people beyond its capacity. As always, I announce my destination loudly to the driver, then to the collector and surrounding folk, so they will tell me where to get off. Up until now, this technique has proven infallible.

The bus follows along the Kauveri River, south India's sacred river. Some thirty minutes later, a general rustle rolls through the bus when someone suddenly notices that we were one-half kilometer past Kottaiyur and I am still on the bus. The driver makes an unscheduled stop and I am pushed through the throng and out the door. I am encouraged at what I see, for the area along the river is quite lush with palms and bamboo groves.

Upon inquiring, a man on the street points me toward the Ram Sadhu ashram. Then he orders a young boy who is playing nearby to escort me. The urchin accompanies me over a little bridge, down a path, past a jog in the road, to the gate of a school. Then a couple of students guide me to Ram Sadhu, who lives in a compound behind the school. We enter a small garden of hibiscus and other flowering shrubs, skirted with white-washed huts and tall shade trees. The sweet odor of jasmine drifts through the air. As I inhale the fresh air, both physically and mentally, I open myself to the upcoming experience.
The children call out, and a brahmachari comes out of a hut. They tell him that I am looking for Ram Sadhu.

"Have your breakfast first," he invites, motioning me into the nearby thatched hut, which must be the kitchen.

"Thank you. I've already eaten."

He bobbles his head and the three of them accompany me to the Sadhu, who is sitting on a cement bench in the shade of a large tree. Ram Sadhu is a very sturdy man, still quite muscular for his age. The ring of gray hair circling his bald head and his short untrimmed beard are both gray. With his chest bare, he only wears a faded short orange dhoti around his hips.

After we are introduced and exchange "namastes," I briefly explain to him my situation, since I have no idea how much English he understands.

Then he looks straight at me and says in English, "The spiritual life is to be lived. It can't be talked about. You can stay here with us one," he hesitates, "or two days. Then you can see what I mean."

"I will have to go back to the hotel to get my things. I can go now because I also have to find a bank and change some money to pay the hotel bill."

"What's the hurry? You have time to sit and rest. I'll show you to your room." He calls a hefty Punjabi gentleman to bring a bedroll for me. We enter a one-room cottage with a tiny porch that will be my home for the next few days. He rolls out the thin wool blanket and straw mat over a solid wooden bed.

"You just relax, that's all."

I leave at approximately 11:00 a.m., so I will be sure and have time to go to the bank and check out of the hotel before noon. I am not sure if it is an Indian, 24 hours after check-in, or European, 12 noon, style check-out time.

"I've come with my things, Swamiji," I greet him as I hand him a small box containing sweet laddhus and a salt snack.

"Bless you, my daughter. Now you just relax. You are that very God, so how can you worry. There is none other than that One, so you must be that God."

"Now that is exactly what I find very hard to believe."

"But it is so, my daughter. That is all you need to know. But to know it one must live alone."

"Alone?"

"Yes, alone in solitude. It is the only way."

Again, he guides me to my room and asks if I need anything.

"No, no nothing at all," I assure him.

Each afternoon there is a satsang of the four or five men who live in the small compound. I have no idea what to expect since everyone here speaks Tamil. A learned Brahman, Sri Siva Ramakrishna, gives a commentary on the Tulasi Ramayana, which he has translated into Tamil. I understand not a word, but I do not mind. Quite content to be in such a beautiful place with such good company, I try to meditate for the entire hour. It's good practice for my ankle bones, sitting on a cement floor with just a light blanket for padding.

After the class, Ram Sadhu tells the manager and the other two men present that I am a spiritual seeker whom he has invited to stay in the ashram for a few days. Further, he tells them, "we will serve her in whatever way we can."

I have noticed that Annaji ["elder brother" in Tamil], the manager, wears a bandage on a couple of toes. Later the Brahman explains to me that he had once been a leper, therefore, an outcaste. This had been during the time Ram Sadhu was living alone in the near-by woods, so he took the young man in and healed him with herbal medicines. Various devotees were always seeking out Ram Sadhu, asking if they could help him in any way. After Annaji was healed, Ram Sadhu suggested that some of them help the young man set up a service project in the community. At first he passed out flour and rice to the poor from a small hut. Over the years, using the money from the devotees of Ram Sadhu, the hut expanded into the orphanage for 100 boys. Later he added an elementary school that also included the village children. Ram Sadhu was persuaded to come live in the ashram some ten years ago when he was 87 years old. By then, the forest in which he had continuously lived "alone" was cleared, the land plowed under, and planted in crops.

That night after dinner, I hear a rap at my door. When I open it I am surprised to find the Sadhu. Earlier when I left the kitchen, I noted that the lights were out in his cottage, so I thought he had retired early.

"Is everything okay?" he asks with a beaming smile.

"Oh, yes. Everything is fine."

"Do you need drinking water?"

"I have some."

"And there is water available for your morning bath?"

"Yes, everything is fine."

"Okay, my daughter, you rest well."

 

Chapter Twenty-five

This Is the Life

For the next couple of days, I begin the day by imbibing nature's beauty. In the beginning, I am content to walk through the lovely ashram garden. By the second evening, I am eager to expand my territory, so I set out to explore along the river. I walk toward town to look for a stall selling soap for washing my clothes. Since I travel so lightly, I already have a suitcase full of dirty clothes. You will be surprised to know that in India all clothes are washed by hand. I am even more surprised to find out I am washing all of my clothes by hand.

On the way I notice a tall gopura, tower, of a very old temple. On my return, I turn down a narrow lane and enter the temple. I am greeted by a young friendly priest who is quite eager to show me around. With his half-dozen English words and my half-dozen Tamil words, we somehow manage to communicate.

The temple was built in the Kumbakonam style—very long and narrow. One must go deep into the cave-like darkness to arrive in the sanctum sanctorum with its presiding deity. In this case, it's Siva, represented by a coal black lingam, adorned with three stripes of yellow sandalwood paste and a big red dot of kumkum. I find a flower of mirrors nearby with an octagonal center and eight petals more intriguing. A ghee lamp is lit and placed exactly so that the flame reflects in the center of each petal. The one light by whose reflection all else glows with the Light of Life. I breathe in the peace and sanctity of old Bharat.

Returning to the ashram, I choose the high path along the river. To my delight, behind the temple I discover a lovely pond complete with blue hyacinths, water lilies, and a new variety of water bird that can walk over the hyacinth leaves. Charmed by the natural beauty, I determine that this is the perfect spot to come and enjoy nature after my early morning meditation and yoga session.

The next morning I trip lightly over to the pond with my little straw mat in hand. I find a semi-decent path down the sloping bank to the pond. On my way, I note little piles of droppings scattered about in the various short weeds and grass. Since the ants have converted them into little hills of crumbled dirt, I pay little attention to this ever-present evidence of human proximity. Fortunately, I find a strip of clean, dry grass where I spot some long-toed birds walking on lily pads, near, but not too close to frighten them. Spreading my little straw mat on the grass, I sit down to space out.

The water lilies, patiently waiting the touch of sunshine, are only partially open. The hyacinths are completely closed, for they evidently require full sun to wake them up. On the opposite shore in a dense bamboo grove, a kingfisher sits in alert contemplation and waits for a ripple in the water. Although he does not display such dramatics in fishing as his black and white cousin, he is definitely more colorful. In the shade, he appears to be a royal blue. However, when he darts out into the sunlight, he reveals a dazzling iridescent turquoise, the same as the peacock. When he fishes, he swoops and skims the top of the water, not daring to plunge into the water.

Although I have to venture several footsteps out into the mud of the pond to do so, I manage to pluck a splendidly fresh white water lily with a fringed yellow center. Clutching my prize, I start to climb the slope to the main path that skirts the river. As I do so, an elderly man on the main trail starts yelling something at me. I am quite taken aback. Perhaps he sells the water lilies at the market and thinks I'm stealing his stock. But this seems quite a fuss over one flower.

Wait a minute. Now I remember that while I was sitting at the pond, I could hear several groups of men pause, comment and move on. Having people around is so normal that I had not given it any thought. The truth now dawns. I have been sitting in the men's toilet. I see men come down to the riverside in the early morning for their daily dump, but I guess this group prefers grass to water. I must have forced quite a few to have to pollute the river this morning. I do note that they did not use their normal place because of my presence. In contrast, the men at the river are quite uninhibited about baring their behinds to all and sundry. They practically squat at each other's feet. Interestingly, judging from their dress, the river dippers are the higher caste.


I had asked Ram Sadhu for permission to ask him some questions and tape the conversation. So that morning, I start my query, "Swamiji, you follow the Vedantic thought that all life is Brahman. So how can one know what is best for the spiritual life and what is not?"

"Let the world be, we are talking about Life itself. Life is everywhere; there are no differences in the Life. There is only one Life that appears in different forms in the material world."

"Well, I can understand that, at least, intellectually," I reply.

"Only Life is always there."

"But to connect this body with that Life. When I try to make the jump, somehow I miss the boat."

"But this body is in the Life. There is no jump to be made," he comments, then sits back thoughtfully.

"Do you think that when someone is enlightened, it is generally because of their karma?"

He looks up, "Well, of course that is a factor."

"So we cannot say that enlightenment is due to self-effort in this life time. It is because of karma, or past efforts."

"Not so, because enlightenment has nothing to do with this mind and body."

"Yes, I do realize that," I reply in a studied voice. "Karma only effects the mind and body. But I keep thinking that I should do the 'right' thing. That's my biggest mistake. I'm perpetually deciding what is the right thing for me to do."

"It's all in your head. This is right and that is wrong. What you think is right for you is wrong for others. The only 'right' thing is that you must know your true Self." He pauses then continues, "I am the Life. This idea must come up. That is the spiritual life. That is all."

"Yes. That's really what has me puzzled. What exactly is a spiritual life? I know some people in the normal world are as spiritual as those in ashrams and monasteries."

"It's a simple thing."

"I know I am making it difficult."

"Eat and live in peace. Then you will understand your true, divine Self. That, my child, is the spiritual life."

He gets up and scoots across the room indicating that the session is over. Then he turns back. "As for thinking, I am this little, limited body, this idea must go. I am the Life that exists everywhere, this idea must come up."

Since this is my third day here, I also have my note of thanks all prepared, so I take out the envelope and hand it to him.

Friday, December 14, 1990
Dear Swamiji,

I thank you for these two days to relax and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere here. Actually, you have not told me anything I did not know. I had reached the same conclusion for myself in the U.S. and that is why I came to India—for a period of serious sadhana, which I consider to be an absolute necessity for my further progress. First, I went to an ashram near Bangalore, but they were building a nature cure clinic and wanted the American to be the director, plus there was other funny business going on there. So I left, I did not have to leave America to find this sort of thing. Recently, I've been roaming about. Certainly, it is partially because I do not have the capacity to sit quietly. I do not want to blame anyone else. I would like to be able to sit quietly for long periods of time, but until then I will just keep moving along. Thank you again for your kindness and care toward me.
Sincerely,
s/Nancy

Along with the note, I give him the white water lily and a 100 Rps. note.

"Where did you find this?"

"If there is a lily pond anywhere around, I am sure to find it!"

"It is so beautiful. . . And what is this?"

"This is a letter to you."

"And this?" as he unfolds the rupee note.

"That is dakshina."

"Dakshina? I don't need any dakshina. . . Now you explain to me what is in this letter; what you want to say. Afterward, I will read the letter, then I will understand your mind."

So I relate to him the gist of its contents. When I am nearly finished he interrupts me.

"Now? What about now?"

"You told me I could stay a day or two here, so I have now completed two days."

"But now? What is your program now?"

"Now I have no fixed program. I am free. Well, except I do have to be in Pondy on January 5 to pick up my visa renewal."

"Then you stay here with us. It's peaceful here, you can stay here and enjoy the true Life with us. Here we only live the spiritual life, not the material life. The boys here said they will be happy to serve you."

Tears well up in my eyes and start to roll down my cheeks. "I hope I deserve it."

"My dear daughter, you just be happy here. There is no worry. The Lord himself has sent you to me. He who creates will also maintain. That is His duty, your only duty is to appreciate."

"Thank you, you are so kind."

"Of course, for you are my daughter. Now you have not eaten breakfast. You must eat. Afterwards, we can discuss these little details."


After the Brahman's talk that day, Ram Sadhu informs everyone I will be remaining with them, then reiterates that they should all serve me in any way possible. I always manage to be at peace in the class in spite of the unknown language, for I always challenge myself to sit for the entire hour without moving.

It is not until the evening that what is happening begins to dawn on me. Here I am at this moment: A result of 1001 past decisions, accidents, missed opportunities, failures and successes, forces—seen and unseen, wrong judgments and right conclusions, all dumped into a caldron to somehow brew up the present situation.

I truly want to savor this lovely, precious, fragile life in all its splendor, but with all my grasshopper-ant conditioning, I intermittently feel guilty at doing nothing at all. We can't sing and dance today, as we must worry for tomorrow—but tomorrow we are going to die! I have always said that all I really wanted to do was enjoy the birds and flowers, feed the animals, and walk in the woods. Here is someone telling me to do just that. Will I be able to endure the peace? It is one thing to say all I want to do is sit peacefully and enjoy the birds and flowers, and another to be able to it.

When I greet him the next morning, Ram Sadhu smiles and pats me on the head. "You enjoy the life here. The Life itself is God. Your body is the temple, the temple for the divine Life. That's all I can tell you. You must live the Life."


By the fifth day my daily routine is established. I awaken at about 4:00 a.m. (without an alarm—now this is a miracle), brew a cup of black tea with my electric coil, steam my eyes, wash my face, then sweep the floor and porch. The activity awakens me enough for meditation on my porch under the spreading lacy leaves of the neem tree. I put a sheet around me to ward off the cool early morning air, but I only sit on my little straw mat, as my legs and ankles will hurt no matter what, so no need to cause commotion over finding a cushion. When my mind really starts running and my legs complaining, I get up and do some stretching exercises. About this time, a cup of tea arrives from the kitchen. Thus fortified, I continue my attempt to meditate until 6:00 a.m.

After meditation, I go indoors for fifteen or twenty minutes of yoga, including surya namaskara, the salutation to the sun routine. By sunrise I am out by the river to watch the sun's rays color the clouds that stretch across the east. The clouds are plentiful as it is still east-coast monsoon season. I poke and piddle around, looking for anything unusual in the river bed, while feeding any fish I spot for my daily bhuta yagna.

The scriptures ascribe five daily offerings. Bhuta yagna is to offer food to our animal friends. Since most of the birds here are either insect or nectar eaters, I have not had any success in attracting any of them with food—except the voracious crows.

The Sadhu always locks the gate to the river after lunch while everyone is resting and again at night. One day, just as he is locking the gate, I scramble up the steps.

"I was feeding the fish—bhuta yagna—with some rice leftover from lunch," I reply to his questioning look.

"Don't you know that it's a bhuta yagna when you feed yourself," he replies with a chuckle.


After my morning walk, I have 30 minutes to bathe and put my laundry in the bucket to soak. Mosquito-buzzing time is over, so I open the shutters to let in the fresh air. As soon as I am bathed and dressed in a clean sari, I go to greet the Sadhu with a "namaste" while he is sitting in his cottage reading the newspaper.

One morning, shaking his head in disbelief, then looking into my eyes, he tells me, "So there you were in America. Now you've come all this way and found me here."

"It's a miracle, isn't it?" I reply with a broad smile.

"We can never guess the ways of the Lord. We never know what is next."

Breakfast of rice gruel, sometimes mixed with dal, arrives at my door about 8:00 a.m. After-wards, I sit outside on a cement bench in the garden. I read and watch the little sun birds, which frequent the hibiscus flowers. Since tea is always served after the meal, it arrives some time during this hour. The winter sun is tolerable until 9:30 a.m., then I flee to my cool, shady room where I read, or write, until 12:30 p.m.

Lunch is always plain unpolished white rice with a soupy sauce of dal and a vegetable. About once a week there is a special meal at the orphanage, as it is the custom among the Hindus to do some charitable deed on certain occasions like birthdays, wedding anniversaries, and anniversaries of the parents' death. The family who makes the donation often come to eat with us or at least to greet Ram Sadhu. However, the Sadhu and Annaji never eat the special food from these occasions as it has extra oil or ghee. Or it may contain onion or garlic, both of which are considered counter-productive to a meditative life.

Ram Sadhu insists that his diet of rice, dal and vegetable is essential to meditation. "If you want it know a person's mind, watch what he eats," he declares.


One evening, I cross the river and walk west down the south bank. I pass wide expanses of rice fields when I come to a tiny village where the women and children throng to gape at the stranger. They attempt to speak to me, but I have to give them my usual "Tamil idliya." A young man, who is standing down the path a short distance , is called over. He speaks enough English to ask what I am doing here, which is really all they want to know. I explain that I am simply walking, enjoying the beauty of the "pu" and "pakshi." (I have to show off the few Tamil words I know.) When he explains to the women, they are all smiles, seeming to approve of my interest in the "flowers" and "birds." Their huts are built off in a group to one side, not lined along the dirt road track, which is the usual custom here.

I continue walking until I come across a lovely banyan tree, an incredulous sight of a holy maze. This variety of banyan forms roots on the branches that eventually reach the ground and start another tree, until one cannot discern where one tree ends and the other begins. The Hindus hold this tree sacred, and often a platform or altar has been built under it. Here there is a huge raised platform made of granite stone and cement. Walking up the steps, I see several small stone chapels: one contains an image of Hanuman, a devotee of Rama who was the hero in the Ramayana.

Another enshrines Kali, the Mother Time who laps up one and all in the end. The awesome black Kali with her necklace of skulls is not worshipped out of fear, but is invoked to help in removing obstacles or any negative forces. In her case, she is dancing on her consort, the masculine energy that empowers her dance of creation and death. The platform is bordered with a three-foot wall, most of which is edged with metal spears. Each shaft is tied with a red rag and topped with a green nimbu (lime).

As I proceed down the path, I pass an area of natural forest, then orchards. No fruit yet, but I conjecture that they are guavas; then I pass large banana and coconut plantations. A few mud huts for the laborers are scattered along the route. I suddenly realize that it's so late I better find the bus to go back to the ashram since night is approaching.

At that moment, I approach a lovely area, full of tall, spreading coconut palms. Mud huts with thatched huts are scattered through the palms—an exact replica of the ideal of a primitive, simple life in nature. I am beholding a picturesque Shangri-La. Seeing the huts are so artistically created, I figure that they were privately built by the occupants and not some government or landowner tenement for field laborers. Yet I know the setting is an illusion; the huts will be dark, damp and full of mosquitoes—and probably mice. Even so, there is something so appealing about not ever having to pay rent. Of course, they do have to work to pay for food, but at one time the people of these idyllic villages would have grown all of their own staple crops.

As I pass by, several people come out to see the stranger and I greet them cheerfully. One gentleman among them speaks decent English. After replying to the five standard questions: "What country?" "What is your name?" "Are you alone?" "Where are you coming from?" "What are you doing here?" I ask one of my own: "How can I get back across the river?"

I am instructed to continue on and just ahead there will be a place to cross the river. I will then be in Swamimolai, where I can catch a bus. He was right; the path soon turns and crosses the river via stone steps down to its bed. Darkness is falling fast as I follow the narrow lane over to the bus stop by the spires of a mosque.

When I return to the ashram, no one is around, so I busy myself with my normal routine for no one ever inquires of my comings and goings. After supper, I am at the outdoor faucet washing my stainless steel plate with ashes from the wood stove and a chunk of coconut husk, when the Sadhu approaches.

"It's so dark. Can you see okay?"

"It's fine, Swamiji. I'm not afraid of the dark."

"Yes, but you returned after dark tonight. I think you better at least tell us in which direction you are going when you leave the ashram."

"I walked on the other side of the river because there is more natural beauty—and less traffic and people—over there."

"You crossed the river?" His voice expresses a tone of surprise.

"Yes, I crossed the river, walked as far as Swamimolai, then crossed back over the river and caught a bus."

"Achaa [yes]," he chuckles.

At least he knows that I was not out buying some goodies to stuff my face. There is not even the common tiny stall with bedis and bananas—India's version of the 7-11—in the other side of the river.

Daily, I watch the life at the river. The river is ever flowing, in perpetual motion; unconcerned about who bathes, who drinks, who swims, who washes clothes in its water. Enjoy me! Enjoy me! I just keep rolling on and on and on, it sings. But the river is mistaken.


Chapter Twenty-six

Life of the River

Before the sun has appeared to radiate its warm rays on the sand and water, the river bank is visite by a few sand pips and black and white wagtails, along with a few early risers who come for their morning dump. They will wait for the sunlight before returning to take their baths in the same waters. Aournd 8:00 a.m. the river beach becomes the bathhouse and laundromat for men only. The bathers first wash their dhotis, which they then stretch out on the sand to dry while they bathe. A couple of men carry a long pole with them to stick in the groud so they can tie their wet dhotis on it to wave like prayer flags in the breeze. For a mile along the river, a brown, round backside shines in every direction.

Around 9:00 a.m., the men clear out and the women and children take over for bathing and washing clothes. The children run and splash in the water while their mothers take long, leisurely baths. While sitting in waist-deep water, they soap themselves lavishly, then rinse by pouring cool water over their bodies with a small brass pot.

When the women and children leave about 10:00 a.m., the dairyman arrives with his herd of buffalo, around two dozen, for their daily baths. The buffaloes love water, so we Americans always call them water buffaloes. The Indians cannot understand why I do not just say "buffalo." They give richer milk in greater quantities than a cow, but I find a slight twang to the milk. The buffaloes are rather lazy, plodding creatures and love to laze around in a muddy pool on a hot summer day.

They have never been trained as a draft animal, which I thought was strange since some of them are huge, the size of two or three cows put together. Then I heard a story of one fellow who had trained his buffalo to pull a cart, and it seemed to have adjusted. One day they were plodding down a hot, dusty road when suddenly the buffalo spotted a pond over to the side of the road. Now buffaloes seldom run, but this one ran hell bent for a nice cool dip, leaving the driver, cart, straw flying to the wind.

From the river bank, I can see the clothes washed downstream by the dobhis, billowing on make-shift clothes lines. I never use these washermen because, although their beating-on-the-rocks technique works well on simple cloth, seams become worn, the buttons broken, and the zippers destroyed. Also, they never spot-check anything—it's simply beat and dry. Any stains remain as is, or are added unto.
The indispensable dobhi is on the lowest rung of the lowest caste because he touches the menstrual saris. Actually, his wife is supposed to wash them, but he gets contaminated also by association. Even in the dobhi caste, there is a hierarchy based on family, experience, and quality of work. If one dobhi wants to insult another he may tell him, "You are so stupid you wash cotton and silk clothes on the same stone."

In Bangalore near the Aurobindo Bhavan, there is a dobhi colony—two rows of government-built tiny huts with their own temple in center front. The dobhis spread out in every direction each morning on bicycles to pick-up the bundles of clothes from homes or children's uniforms from residential schools. No one ever brings their clothes to the colony personally. The dobhi is considered a necessit, a home with air conditioner, color TV, VCR, and microwave will not have a washing machine. To purchase one would mean that they would cause their dobhis to lose work. How they manage to wash the clothes in the muddy lakes and ponds and produce white clothes is what I call one of India's miracles.

Mid-day is quiet at the river since all creatures flee to the shade to rest in the simmering heat of December. Every afternoon, there is a major convening of crows. They sit in the tops of trees cawing, then descend to the water's edge where there is a constant dance of jockeying for position—who bathes first, who gets the best pool, continual flapping and hopping and fussing as they approach, challenge, then give ground. When they are finally satisfied that they have completed their ablutions, they fly back to the tree tops to preen and boast with their noisy crow vocals.

On Sundays a few school children come for a picnic—but the Indians are not fond of picnics. One Indian described them as "a device invented by the British to make eating inconvenient." Often when they go for a picnic, it is just an outing to a scenic spot and there is no food. Well, I must correct that, you will not ever find an Indian without a bag of food. What I mean is that on a picnic they will have the usual bags of snacks, fruit and candies that go with them everywhere, but no particular meal.


Since I am going to remain here, I leave early one morning to go to town to buy supplies toward a permanent stay: plastic bucket, detergent, cleaning agents for walls, etc. Upon arriving, I first find to the Post Office and buy several inland letters, then walk over to a restaurant for breakfast. I now have a plan to short-circuit their custom of serving the tea after the meal. I want tea immediately. When I order, I mention the tea first: "one cup of chaya tea, bring it first, and one plain dosa [rice pancake], bring it second." I repeat, "chaya first," holding up one finger, then "dosa second," holding up two fingers. My efforts paid off as I am served the tea first. But five minutes later, I am served two dosas. Immedi-ately, I realize my communication error, but I do not even attempt to explain to them. I eat one and one-half dosa with no problem. For the remainder of my journey, I use a different technique: first, I order tea; only after it is brought to me, do I order the breakfast dish.

In the market, I have to meander through a labyrinth of vendors for ten minutes or so before I find the type of shop I want. The proprietor of the small stall insists on offering me a cool drink. Enjoying the pause to sit a few minutes, I slowly sip the cold, sweet nimbu pani, limeade. I have no idea where the water came from. This is one of those occasions I simply have to throw caution to the wind for the sake of politeness. In the countryside and villages I do not have to worry because the water comes from wells.
The young man then gives me directions to the stall where I will find notebooks. I buy a large thick one, for I am determined to keep a daily journal. I have been taking sporadic notes in a diary, but now I am going to be thorough. Writing daily does not come easily for me; I guess for the same reason I never enjoyed spectator sports. However, I am going to make the effort, for Ram Sadhu is too great not to share with others.

This morning when I told the Sadhu I was going to town to get some supplies, he replied that he could get me anything I needed. It was not necessary for me to go out.

"I need to go the Post Office and also to purchase some small items that I may be particular about, like shampoo and a journal."

"You go, but you do not have to tell me. You can come and go as you please. This is your home."

When I return that afternoon before satsang, he again mentions, "I can get you anything you need. You don't have to bother to go to town."

I had my daily exercise traversing the marketplace, so in the evening I just putter around the river and make a startling discovery: The river is totally clear of all people after 6:00 p.m. I have the whole place all to myself. I stretch out on the dry sand and dream dreams of far away places embellished with moonbeams glowing through palm leaves.

December 19, 1990
Today was a normal day with no particular ups and downs until my evening walk. As usual I cross the river and choose a path I have not taken before, heading due south away from the river. The path skirts rice fields and a couple acres of sugar cane. Definitely, a productive terrain, I note. An old woman—
really ancient, her dark leathery skin hangs loose on her thin body—is plodding along beside me. She is bent from the weight of a huge burlap sack, stuffed with fodder, so heavy that she weaves as she walks.

To my surprise I come across a small village in the middle of nowhere. As I pass the yard of the first thatched hut on the path, the largest buffalo I have ever seen, sporting a fear-inspiring set of horns, looks up and starts toward me. Thank goodness, I can see that it is securely tethered. Good Lord, I think, don't tell me that even a buffalo can recognize a stranger. However, the mystery is soon solved when the old woman, who had fallen behind me, crosses over and dumps her load of grass for the big fellow.

The children and women in the yards of the huts remain quiet as they watch me pass. In the center of the village, I am surprised to see a couple of "cement" houses. I have not seen any of these city-type houses on this side of the river. On the steps of the veranda of the largest one, a young man is sitting along with several children. He stands up and motions for the children to stand also. I greet them with a "namaste" and they return it.

He then asks the expected: "Where are you from?"
Then, "What are you doing lonely here?"

"I am just walking."

"But you are lonely. Why isn't someone with you?"

"I guess because I know how to walk by myself."

"But no one walks lonely here."

By now I am moving slowly down the path. "Good-bye," I call over my shoulder. I walk farther down the path, which is broad enough to be called a road, but definitely not adequate for cars. I greet several curious-eyed children with a "namaste.". The road begins cutting even further away from the river through beautiful bright green rice paddy. One irrigation pond is full of lovely lilies with a large white crane fishing in its shallow water. Finally, I have to give up on finding a path that cuts across to the river. Although I do not want to, I begin to retrace my steps.


Just as I feared, everyone is on alert: There is a white lady in the village. A gaggle of giggling children soon surrounds me. I am prevailed upon by the parents of one little back-eyed cherub to bless him. When I pass the young man's house again, he jumps up and asks me in—which means to sit on the veranda, never inside the house. Actually, any wandering sadhu or traveler is welcome to sleep on these verandas should he arrive in a village in the night.

The young man says he wants to talk to me for five minutes. I agree and take a seat on the long wooden bench. His elderly mother, in a heavy silk sari with her ear lobes covered with large disks of gold and a diamond gleaming from her nostril, is sitting on a side bench. Although I am sure she does not know a word of English, she wants a good look at the strange phenomenon. Every child in the village is crowded into the tiny space between the verandah and compound fence, making it appear that the verandah is off-limits for them.

The young man, in his mid-20s, starts to pose his questions, beginning in the Indian subtle mode: "What are you doing here?"

"I'm staying at the ashram for sadhana."

"What?"

"At the ashram across the river."

"The Swami Ramalinga Ashram?"

"Yes." I am surprised to hear it referred to as a Swami Ramalinga Ashram. However, there is only one ashram, so I do not want to complicate matters by debating its name.

"So you are doing service there in the school and boys' home?"

"No, I am not. They are being managed quite well by Indians."

"So what are you doing?"

"I told you, sadhana. You are an Indian, you know what sadhana means, spiritual practices, like meditation and study of the scriptures."

"So what are you studying?"

"Hindu philosophy."

"So if you are doing service at the ashram, that's okay."

"But, as I told you, I am not doing any service."

"So what are you doing?"

"Sir, I cannot see that I have to explain my actions and motives to you."

"Oh, I do not mean to be personal."

I take the opportunity to change the subject, "So how long has your family lived in this house?"

"Five years, it is five years old. It is my older brother's house. He works in Saudi Arabia."

"I see, so you own land here?"

"Yes, we are landlords. But I am going to be a commercial man and make a lot of money. Commerce is where the money is."

At that moment, we are interrupted by the servant, who has appeared with a stainless steel tumbler of hot milk, well sugared. The mother takes the tumbler from the tray and then carefully puts it into my hands. I am sizing her up, probably not from Tamil Nadu as she only has one nose diamond; definitely, must be south Indian, judging from the heavy silk sari, but not Kerala, they only wear cotton. She could be from Andhra Pradesh because they have a tendency to immigrate to get good farm land. But I am not sure though, for a high caste Andhra women would be listening behind the door, not out in plain sight.

As I take a sip of the rich, buttery buffalo milk, he continues, "Yes, I'm going to be a wealthy magnate. I will be able to help these poor people."

Then he points to the village children, all dressed in virtual rags, but none looking hungry. "That is my true desire."

"What will you do to help them?"

We volley back and forth a minute as he does not understand what I mean.

"I will build something like the Swami Ramalinga ashram school, but first one has to have the financial base."

"One does have to be careful though, we can get so carried away with making money and accumulating things that we forget the ideals of our youth."

"I see what you mean. Do you feel you have forgotten your ideals?"

"The truth is I don't recall having any ideals in my youth; I was much too self-centered. I don't think I have ever given much thought to the future at all, not in my entire life. But I certainly think to have a goal like yours is very commendable."

"But one has to have a financial base... [a pause] Will you give me the address of your organization in America?"

"I have no organization in America."

"You know, the one that sent you here to do service."

"No organization sent me. I came on my own."

"But that is impossible, someone had to pay for your tickets here and your travel."

"I paid for them myself."

"I don't believe you. It is impossible. Your parents, an organization, someone paid for your trip."

"It is possible because that is what I did."

"No..."

"Look, your brother is working in Saudi Arabia. I'm sure he makes enough money for his trip back and forth. He has even saved money to send here to build this house. So how can you say it is impossible?"

I stand up with my final words, "I need to go now."

I turn and wish his mother "namaste," then start down the steps.

"By God's grace, may we meet again," his words follow me out the gate.

Well, it will not be by my grace, I think, because I certainly will not take this route again. I do not relish these tedious conversations, although I do learn something about how the locals think and live.

Because of the delay, fifteen minutes or so, I arrive back at the river after the sun has set, so it is totally deserted. Even so the sky is streaked with an afterglow of color, so I stand motionless for a few moments to take it in. However, the dim light presents me with a challenge when I try to find a place to cross the river. I have learned that the narrow strips in the river are often the deepest. The wider places where the river spreads out and makes ripples, which I first thought were currents, are actually the shallowest crossings. Tail of my sari in hand, I pick my spot and wade in what turns out to be ankle-deep water, enjoying the cool water on my hot, dusty feet.

Day by day the river is disappearing. A week ago I was lucky to find a crossing that was only knee deep; now it's ankle deep. When I reach the dry shore, I pause again to catch another long inspiration from the streaks of purple and rose stretching across the dark sky. Then, taking in the wonder of that quiet twilight moment, I twirl a couple of times with my arms out-stretched in joy.

As I turn and start back to the ashram steps, I catch a glimpse of a solitary figure moving along the river. As it approaches, I realize it is Ram Sadhu. I have never, ever seen him out of the ashram compound before.

"Good evening, my darling daughter."

"Good evening, my revered Father," I respond with a smile.

The sky has darkened enough that the crescent moon is now shimmering on the horizon. Together we look up at it. Then he places both hands on top of his walking stick and looks straight into my eyes.

"It's the second day, two digits. Night before last was the dark night. Our rsis did such a great task in observing, then naming, all aspects of nature. The moon has been divided into sixteen kalas, or sections, of time. Each kala bears the name of a woman." Weaving back and forth while leaning on his cane, he represents a perfect picture of the Wizard Merlin.

"These names represent the different parts of the manifested creation?"

"They are the different energy levels that create the different manifestations."

"I see."

He turned and spread his hands, "The Life is everywhere expressing its joy. Oh, you cannot imagine what wonderful times I have spent here. I used to lie right out on the warm sand and sleep. There were no buildings, no lights, no one at all in those days. All this civilization has appeared in the last twenty-five years."

"How old were you when you left your family?"

"About thirty, but I always knew this was the life for me. Even when I was a boy, I understood that everything is God. My mother taught me all these things; she was such a devotee. She also taught me the Ramayana. Every night she would have me recite some verses before I slept. If I forgot and slept off, she would even wake me up and say, 'My son, recite just a few verses for me.' She did not make it seem like something I had to do, but that it was something that gave her such great pleasure. Of course, it made me happy to please my mother. Gradually, I memorized many long passages from the Ramayana.

"We were Brahmans and lived a religious life. No one was surprised or bothered when I left home. It was natural for me; everyone knew that it would happen sooner or later."

As we reach the steps up to the ashram compound, Venus is twinkling near the new moon. He mentions that there was a notice in today's paper that the dam, upstream from us, is full and the authorities will be releasing water tomorrow.

"So you must be cautious in your wanderings tomorrow."

"Yes. I will. I am so happy; tomorrow we will have a river again."

Occasionally, Ram Sadhu comes in and sits on a wooden bench as the rest of us eat. He never eats with us; the brahmachari serves him in his cottage. Anyway, he only has a little fruit with a glass of hot milk at night. I always bow, touch his feet, and say "Good night, Swamiji."

"Right-o, Rajarajeshwari."

When he says this, I lift my eyebrows to demonstrate great doubt, because this is the name of a goddess.
"Yes, you are a queen in this world. You just don't know it, that's all."

December 20, 1990
Today I woke up with a slight headache. After a rest I still do not feel any better, so I opt to take my usual river walk and get some fresh air. Also I take a dose of Bryonia, one of my trusted homeopathic remedies. In ten minutes the pain has evaporated, this is the second time that I have had good results with Bryonia for a headache. Fortunately, it's still early enough that not many people are out yet. I walk the one-half kilometer down the river bed to the deep hole where I am sure to find fish to feed and a couple of kingfishers to admire.

However, I have some trepidation about entering the river bed with the knowledge of the impending release of water. Logically, if a big inundation is coming, it will only be released at night because it is not possible to alert all of the rural villagers. But action in India often defies logic.

I recall when I was in the Himalayas in 1978, there had been a terrible flood, which was caused by the Indian equivalent of the Army Corps of Engineers. Upstream from Uttarkasi, there had been a big log jam across the Ganga (for some reason the British preferred to mispronounce it "Ganges") from trees that had fallen in a harsh winter storm. The debris was so great that a lake had formed and was threatening to spread out and flood several near-by villages. The engineers rushed in with as much dynamite as they could carry, put it in the middle of the dam of timbers, and set the charge. For miles downstream everything within ten to twenty yards on each side of the banks was leveled, if not by the force of water, by the huge trees and debris it carried. The greatest losses were to the sadhus who build their huts along the banks of the holy river. If there were any human casualties, they went unreported; no one collects this type of data in India. It was all Mother Ganga's will. Long live the Ganga!

This morning the Kauveri remains in her usual dry state. The newspapers said tomorrow, but considering the Hindi languages uses the same word, kal, for tomorrow and yesterday; these notices must be subject to indefinable law. When I return to the ashram, I wash up and greet the Sadhu. Every morning our dialogue is exactly the same.

"Namaste, good morning, Swamiji."

"Good morning, my darling daughter, are you well with yourself?"

"Yes, Swamiji, I am well."

"Need anything, any food, supplies?"

"No, Swamiji, I need nothing."

"Go have your breakfast. You need to eat too."

Once when I was leaving, I turned and grinned back at him: "Only one need: eternal peace."

At 3:00 p.m. as I am going over to hang my sari on the clothes line, I hear an unusual splashing sound. Looking out over the fence, I see an eagle standing in the river, bathing in a shallow pool of water. Interestingly, it is only some ten feet from a man taking his bath, and both appear to be unnoticed and unconcerned by the other. Then a pair of eagles swoop in to join the first, but stand at the edge of the water. At that moment, a couple of young boys come running by, totally oblivious to the birds. The three circle up and around to alight a little farther downstream to continue their ablutions. Again, within moments, a couple of dogs come running by.

Although the dogs pay no attention to the eagles, the birds are alerted and rise, circle, and find a new bathing spot. What a sight to see them pulsating those giant wings, then enjoying themselves as they dip and shimmy in the water. As soon as one finishes, it flies to a nearby tree, and another enters the deeper water for bathing. I do not see two of them bathing at the same time. They appear to wait in line, perhaps to serve as lookouts.


December 21, 1990
The river still has not filled up, but I stroll the dry bed with confidence as the sand trucks are back today. I am glad I have known the river in this form, a couple of silver streaks winding through the sand, easily available to man and beast. And it is ever-changing, but not necessarily of its own volition. The dump trucks, brightly painted in turquoise, yellow and red, daily carry away loads of sand leaving pits that modify and remold the two main streams and the secondary channels. As a result, each day a branch dries up or another branch breaks through between the two channels. Sometimes small boys build a dam to make a small pool, but the sand seldom holds the stream back for long.

I have a slight headache again today, so I go for a slow stroll through the trees and shrubs of the bamboo forest on the west side of the ashram. I think of Adam walking in the garden of Eden; the responsibility that humans have to protect the beautiful creations of the plant world. I wonder what the actual Hebrew word is for "dominion." Man has "dominion over" the plant and animal kingdom, soon expanded to man over man. Is that where it began: in Genesis with the term "dominion over," rather than "responsibility for"? Or did man write Genesis to suit his own nature?

All the creation is a manifestation of the incredible diversity of the One Supreme. Was The Fall just having the capacity to divide the diversity between good and bad? If so, the ability to drop this acquired skill must be a key.

A new guest arrived in the garden this morning; a rust-colored bird with a black-tufted head and white breast. While watching it, my eye wanders over to a white flower on a vine that runs along the ashram fence that turns out to be some type of wild squash. When I look up, I spot a golden-backed woodpecker, not seven feet away. He has not spotted me, as he goes hopping and pecking, hopping and pecking, up and down a branch. His feathers are ruffled and scruffy, definitely contributing to its appearance as an old world bird.


December 22, 1990
I had not thought it possible, but the river can no longer be called a river. The flow has been completely cut off by the tracks of the sand trucks leaving long, isolated fingers of motionless water. The water level is so low today that the buffaloes have to sit down for enough water to get any relief from the heat. But I do find some minnows to give my leftover rice. They are playing about in a small pool only a foot deep. In that pool I spot something else of interest: a small red clay pot—six inches across—stuffed with a piece of folded banana leaf. I squat down to observe the layout carefully. Around this pot are a dozen of its miniature—one and one-half inches across—each pot stuffed with a pan leaf. Uncooked rice, inedible to the fish, is also scattered around.

Later, I ask brahmachari what the offering I saw in the river signified. As I suspected, it is the ritual for the ancestors, performed on their death anniversary. They believe that ancestors partake of the offered food. I have noticed in the city newspapers, even in Bombay, that the death anniversary has been modified from a trip to the river to a notice in the newspaper with a photo, name of deceased, and date of death.

"She doesn't miss anything, does she?" the brahmachari commented to Ram Sadhu.

December 23, 1990
I overslept for the first time today, how seriously I do not know because my watch has decided to become an instrument for stopping time. I assume it is trying to help me reach the timeless state. However, we now have temple music that starts blaring promptly at 4:30 a.m., so I doubt I slept too long with that noise. This blasting of loud music from the temple just began two days ago, for this is the month of the devasMargari—the most auspicious month of the year, primarily celebrated in the south. For forty-five days everyone in Tamil Nadu lives the life of sannyasa, abstaining from sex and meat-eating.

This season is particularly associated with a pilgrimage to the Ayyapa temple. A goal of every man in the South is to visit this temple once in his lifetime. The men all don a black dhoti for their first trip. After completion of the Ayyapa pilgrimage, the following years, the men can wear either orange or blue dhotis. So in late December and January, hundreds of orange-clad pseudo-sannyasis are rickshaw drivers, office clerks, and the banana-stall attendants. I was told that even the Moslems become vegetarians. Therefore, the price of vegetables skyrockets, especially since it is the rainy season and the principal vegetables of tomato, eggplant and okra, which all need the hot sun, are not growing well. In addition to the austerities, special rituals are performed in the home and everyone goes to the local temple daily. The boys in the orphanage are rising earlier than usual to be able to parade around the temple singing bhajans before their morning prayer service. The music via the loudspeaker is not conducive to meditation, so I decide to forego the attempt and catch up with my journal writing.

After breakfast, as usual I sit in the garden reading and watching the tree with tiny fragrant trumpet flowers. The yellow flowers are so small and insignificant that only the nectar suckers and I appreciate them. I hear a chirp, "Look, look, look at me" and raise my eyes to see a tiny black bird stretch his wings to pivot slightly to show me the bright iridescent blue patch on his shoulders and back. His long curved bill fits easily into the small tube of a flower. The other two nectar suckers that frequent the flowers are yellow breasted. They seldom make a sound, but the bobbing of the flowering branches indicates their presence.

Today the river is down another foot. Only a pair of eagles come to bathe. After standing and hopping, standing and hopping, they only find eagle-knee-deep water. Finally, they give up and fly upstream, seeking better possibilities for a cool-down. The black and white kingfishers are out in full force. Kerplunk. Kerplunk. They are having good luck and only have to hang in the air for a few seconds to spot their prey. Whereas earlier I have seen them hover for at least sixty seconds at a time. What skill they flaunt as they bend their body into a forty-five degree angle, spin their wings, and dive straight into the water, disappearing completely, then emerging with a silver sliver in their bills.

My patroness, that is, the owner of the cottage I am staying in, arrived today. A widow of ten years, she is petite and vital, a typical Tamil woman. Even though she is going to spend the night, she insists that I not move out of her cottage. She says she can simply sleep in another place, probably on a straw mat on the kitchen floor. Another example of Indian hospitality that is not to be equaled in all the world. They believe that a guest is god, and act accordingly. She spends a lot of time talking to Ram Sadhu, in Tamil, so I did not even get a drift of the theme. Also she finds some time to help in the kitchen. When returning from washing my dishes, I meet the Sadhu coming up the path.

"Aaka," he calls out to me, which means "elder sister" in Tamil and is a definitely a term of respect connoting the wisdom of an elder.

"Tatta," I return his greeting. He gets a good laugh over my reply, as I surprise him with my knowledge of the Tamil word for "Grandfather," also a term of respect. You see the Indians consider it disrespectful to call anyone by their given names. So there is a title of respect for everyone: tambi, younger brother; anna, elder brother, etc. You may have noticed that I never call Ram Sadhu by his name. Although he is not a swami, we all call him "Swamiji" as a term of respect, since he really lives the life of a renunciate, or sannyasi.

A great example of this custom of respect appears in the Ramayana. During their wanderings, Rama, Lakshana and Sita visit a small rural village. The women are serving the three guests equally, not wanting to favor anyone, even the Lord Rama. However, when they get the first opportunity, they take Sita aside and ask, "Which one is Rama?" Sita cannot point to her husband (pointing must be considered rude everywhere) and she has never dared utter his name. "My husband is the dark-skinned one," she replies, thus remaining in the confines of respect.

The most universal way, although more common in the North, to entitle someone is to add the Hindu suffix "ji" to the name, so I am usually called "Nancyji." Since I am the only female here, I am most often referred to as "she." You may also note that Ram Sadhu has never called me by my name, but "daughter," or sometimes "aaka" elder sister. Tonight, "Tatta" presses a little packet of candy into my palm.

 

Chapter Twenty-seven

Gifts for the Heart

I was up before the usual 4:00 a.m. this morning. It is not as difficult as it seems because sometimes I am asleep by 9:00 p.m. Besides, I am sleeping on a bed of a hard plank board without a mattress. I awaken almost every hour to change sides as my hip bones are feeling bruised. I made the mistake of leaving my thinsulate pad in Bangalore; one that I will not repeat. The quiet of the night settles early here. However, one bird awakens occasionally during the night to squawk, chatter and complain about something; then it settles back into silence. I suspect it's a myna; they have such a wide range of voice possibilities. Since I am up early, I quickly scurry about with washing my face, drinking a cup of hot tea, and straightening my bed. So I will have 15 or 20 minutes for meditation before the blasting of the loudspeaker begins.

The blaring always starts on schedule. Indians are never on time for anything, but that music commences at 4:30 a.m. rain or shine. I would sure like to tell the person who invented the loudspeaker a thing or two. So when the blasting starts, I stop my attempt at meeting the Divine through meditation and start reading the Ramayana, out loud to help my concentration. Last night the Sadhu delivered a thick, English translation to my door just before I retired.

After breakfast, I go by the Sadhu's cottage to check the only calendar to be sure of the date.

"It's the 24th. Tomorrow is Christmas," I mention to him.

"Yes, do you need anything special, it being Christ's birthday?"

"No. Christmas is a festival of materialism for us, not anything spiritual. I am glad to be away from that madness. Although I realize how great Christ and his teachings were, I'm not interested in Christianity as a religion, or in any religion for that matter. However, the Christians are too narrow-minded for me."

"Don't concern yourself. Narrow-minded, not narrow-minded. It's all the same Life. Let them be; you just be at peace. That's all I want of you: shanti, shanti."

"Yes, you are certainly right. I do not want to be narrow-minded about narrow-mindedness."

The phoebe-like birds have come to my porch in their daily scavenging for bugs and worms throughout the ashram grounds. Although they seldom sing, they have a lovely song that includes a distinctive trill at the end of each line. A durango also visited us today. He is solid black with a long tail split into two forks. I have often seen him quietly sitting on a high wire, but today he was swooping and dipping after bugs. Later I see him taking a ride on the back of a black goat. I am amused because he has always seemed such a loner before.

Since it is Christmas Eve, I want be quiet. In early evening, I pick a dry spot and sit on the sand to watch the sunset. The monsoon with its puffy clouds produces the loveliest of sunsets. Broad streaks of gray strata along the horizon reflect the rays of the sun up to the higher cumulus clouds to color them with orange and gold. A fat crescent moon hangs overhead and a stray wisp of a cloud, bright pink, floats by it. I watch the evening star disappear behind a gray streak, then reappear, then disappear and reappear again. Slowly the moon fades into the murky dusk above the horizon. I lie back in the sand and watch the moon through the fringed arms of the palm trees that fan the settling darkness. And I wait. Yes, there they are. Tiny lights that glow and fade, glow and fade and glow. Fireflies at Christmas time.


December 25, 1990

Christmas morning dawns foggy and chilly. I complete my daily reading of the Ramayana with extreme joy; it is so incredibly beautiful. The Indians say that the Ramayana not only portrays the divinity of all life, it also extols the nobility of life. I am half-finished with my morning yoga routine when there is a knock at the door. The brahmachari peeps his head in the door and tells me, "Annaji has suggested that you come over for the morning prayers and lighting of the lamp, since it is Christmas."

"When?"

"In five minutes."

I quickly wrap myself in a clean sari and walk the short distance to the school prayer room. As I take my seat on the square of carpet placed for me, I smile, for the shrines are decorated with tiny twinkling lights. Seeing them puts me in a cheerful mood, for I love Christmas lights. The boys sing their morning prayers, then I give each an orange and apple—Santa in India, or something like that. I had arranged for the fruit and a special meal in honor of my mother, since she has a Christmas birthday. Sitting there, I recall, although it is 7:00 a.m. on Christmas morning here, it will be 7:00 p.m. Christmas Eve in U.S. I shutter at the thought of the Christmas Eve madness that I have experienced in the past. I have been totally guilty too. I love giving gifts, decorating and cooking for Christmas. However, if we Christians put as much time, thought and energy into the preparation for Christ's birth in our hearts, as we do on gifts and food, the world would certainly be a different place today.

A new bird arrived in the garden today, as large as the koel. A large member of the cuckoo family; it is black, brown and white with a long tail with a broad stripe of white. I have never seen this bird before and am trilled to see it in flight with its tail pointed like an arrow. It heads for the neem tree whose berries must be his main interest, but the tiny fruit is nearly finished. The smaller phoebe-like birds are singing merrily today. Are they happy at having a cool, shady day, or do they know it is Christmas?

After supper I am floating peacefully through the garden when I encounter the Sadhu. "No stars tonight, Swamiji. But there is a big fire up the river. The sky is glowing with pink smoke in that direction," I express my concern.

He turns and looks, "They are firing bricks."

"Firing bricks? Yes, of course." How often have I seen the pyramids of the ancient brick-making method in progress, but never the actual firing.

December 26, 1990
Yesterday the Sadhu suggested that I start pranayama, or breathing exercises. After class today he asks me to make a chart of my pranayama practice; how many rounds and how long it takes. He has already recommended that I try for twelve rounds at each sitting.

"You should do it 48 times a day."

"But 12 times the three hours means 36 total."

He does not reply. I decide that since twelve is still a bit of a strain for me that I will continue to do twelve for a couple of days. Then I can add one cycle each day until I reach the higher number.

As far as I can tell the water has still not been released upstream, although one narrow channel is winding through the sand. I think it must be from a bit of rain somewhere north of here. The buffaloes have to be satisfied with wetting their hooves and taking a drink, as water is too low for a buffalo bath. I wonder where the villagers are bathing and doing their laundry. The bamboo poles holding lines of billowing clothes are still visible downstream, so the dobhi continues his trade. The river is so quiet that I can actually hear the slap of the clothes on the rocks.

For my evening walk, I cross the non-existent river to the other shore and start down the closest path, which passes the crematorium shed. I am half way up the stone stairs before I am aware that there is smoke coming from it. The red crepe paper poppies and colored streamers strewn about give evidence of a recent procession, which strangely I had not heard. Usually, there are loud drums to warn one and all of the potential pollution. Once when I was in Chidambaram, a bier (the usual two bamboo poles supporting the body, which was wrapped in white cotton cloth) was approaching me. One of the two priests clapped his hands vigorously when he saw me. A warning to me of the polluting corpse. . . or vice versa?

To the Hindu pollution is not physical. It has nothing to do with human excrement in the rivers they drink out of, the open sewers that run by their homes, the mounds of human poop along the roadway. Pollution is a vibrational thing—the touch of an uncouth person, the shadow of a toilet cleaner, food cooked by the impure person or a menstruating woman—but the presence of a dead body is the worst pollution of all. Yes, cremators are definitely untouchables, but some have managed to take advantage of their position for some economic leverage.

At the top of the rung of this untouchable community—all castes have strict and complicated hierarchies—is the Benares clan. Tradition has it that if you die in the holy city of Benares you will be liberated from the cycle of birth and death. No matter your past errors, they are rendered null and void. So there are a lot of Hindus migrating to retire in Benares, making a booming business for the Doms—the undertakers there. First, the cost of wood for the cremation is high; they can, and do, charge a premium. One cannot start a funeral pyre with any old match, so the service of providing the fire brand from the perpetual flame calls for an another fee. If the family of the deceased is wealthy, additional gifts are extracted. The head honcho, called the Dom Raja— (Recognize the word raja, "king"?), negotiates all the accounts. He is reputed to be the wealthiest man in all of Benares. Typical of caste hierarchy, his position is inherited, not elected or bought.

So here I am in the midst of polluting smoke from the local crematory, which is not exactly pleasant for me either. An Indian would have avoided the polluting smoke at all costs, but holding my breath, I scurry past the structure. Not without taking mental notes: the pyre is a small, a tidy heap with the outside totally covered with round cow-dung cakes, placed around it in an orderly fashion. A neat pile of them sits nearby, ready for service though no caretaker is visible. When I do have to take a small breath, I am astonished to find that I only smell grilled steak. Can you believe it? A funeral pyre only smells like the neighbors barbecuing in their back yard.

Leisurely, I walk past green fields of waving rice. A row of women are weeding the plants. Work-ing across a row together, they move in unison. Their colorful saris of red, orange and green billow in the stiff breeze. These rustics are crazy about the colorful nylon and polyester saris. One cannot blame them for wanting a sari that is easy to wash and dry. However, on a typical tropical day in south India, it's like being in a steam cabinet. Yes, I am speaking from personal experience. I almost had to disrobe in the middle of the street once when I borrowed one of Usha's nylon saris in a pinch during the monsoon season.

I purposely walk past the spot where I had seen the lovely green pin-tailed birds dust-bathing one evening. Lined up on high wires, they are here again today. They show off with an occasional pivot, flourished with a swirl as they catch a passing insect. I have never seen these bee-eaters so near civilization before; they like the open fields. Here they seem to have happily adapted to modern man's inventions. Afterwards I go by the Banyan tree temple. I place a purple flower and a coin in the Kali Shrine—we all must bow to Mother Time—sooner or later.

Taking deep breath, I pause a moment in this most ancient of temples; humankind's first temples, even in Europe, were under a wonderful tree. I breathe in the beauty of the overhead boughs draped with green leaves. As per the dictates of custom, several Neem trees are also are growing here, but they have remained small in the shade of the large Banyan. The marriage of these two varieties of trees is supposed to produce the vibrational environment for the granting of desired progeny. Yes, they are still praying for babies here in India. Black granite stones, each carved with a caduceus, the serpent symbol of vital life, are placed under these trees by couples in a ritual to beget children. The serpent in India has not received the bad press that is has in the West via the Hebraic scriptures. Here it is considered a positive omen—it's LIFE.

In the evening the Sadhu sits in the kitchen during supper. After I have finished eating, he asks if I am doing the pranayama.

"Yes, I'm doing it."

"That's 36 times, but you must do 48."

Just as I open my mouth to explain I plan to gradually increase the number, he continues, "There is another time, you know."

"What time?" I am puzzled.

"Oh, yes. At twelve midnight. It is the best time."

"It may be the best time, but it is not my best time. If I am going to get up early, I have to sleep early. I can't possibly stay up until midnight."

"Let it be. You do as you can. It's my duty to tell you these things; that is all I can do."

"Well, I usually wake up around 1:00 a.m.; I could do the pranayama then."

"Sary [okay in Tamil], you do that. I know you are getting up early." He turns to the brahmachari, "She gets up at 4:00 a.m. I've watched the light go on in her room."

"You don't know what a miracle that is—my getting up at 4:00 a.m. and without an alarm clock. I'm used to waking up a 7:00 a.m. every day in Pondy."

"Here we do nothing but sadhana. That's why we are here. We have no interest or concern with the material world."

"The old buffalo is being pretty cooperative up to now. I don't want to overwhelm the old fellow," I comment with a smile as I pat the hip of my body.

"Rama, Rama. Who has sent me this daughter?" the Sadhu mutters as he exits into the dark night.

December 28/, 1990
I set out for a morning walk through the sand bottoms where once a river flowed, for the trickle that appeared yesterday is gone today. I pass the small pool of the pots left from the ceremony for the ancestors. Every time I pass this way I eyeball the cute little miniature clay pots. They look so common, but try to find them in the marketplace. For the sake of the ancestors, I resist pilfering one. The lack of flow has left the water limpid and clear and the largest pot has overturned, so I can see additional details. The large pot was sitting on a flat, gray stone with a red cloth underneath and was full of rice. I can also discern that some of the small pots contained mango leaves, instead of paan leaves. When I go to wish the Sadhu good morning, he again asks about the pranayama.

"It's going fine. I did do one cycle when I woke up a 1:00 a.m., but I had difficulty getting back to sleep."

"Sleep. We don't want to sleep; we must conquer sleep."

I know this sleepless phenomenon of the Hindus is mentioned in several scriptures. Even in the Bhagavad Gita, "the sleepless one" is one of the accolades that Lord Krsna gives to the hero, Arjuna. But to one who has claimed what she does best is sleep, the idea has not been given much consideration.

"If there's no mind, who sleeps?" he continues.

"If there is not mind, then there's no one to sleep."

"Right-o."

"So you never sleep?" I question him.

"I do rest the body. The body has to have food and rest, but I never sleep. I let my body rest until 1:00 a.m. I've been sitting in this chair since then—no sleep—and I'm totally fresh," he says with a twinkle in his eye. "We must rid ourselves of laziness."

"Oh, yes, Ms. Laziness. Well, I certainly know her. I can honestly say that I know that I know laziness."

Surely, to some extent sleep is an escape and a forgetting. Is that why I am getting by easily with less sleep—nothing happening during the day to escape or forget?

It is one of those clear, bright spring days—yes, December is spring here—so bright and crisp that the mind naturally stands lucid and transparent, content with the world. The bulbul is declaring his presence in the garden with his melodious song. The rust, black and white bird has found a mate and they are fluttering and chirping in a nearby tree. The little black nectar sucker is back testing the tubular yellow blossoms that have just opened. As it turns out, these flowers are more difficult to sup from as their clusters are on willowy branches not suitable for perching. The tiny sipper is forced to hover and spin his wings in midair to collect the nectar. The tiny black sunbird is accompanied by a plain two-toned gray one, who must be his mate. The iridescence spreads over his shoulders and head like a little jewel!

Today the eagles arrive early, at 11:00 a.m., to bathe. I suppose they feared there would be no water if they waited any later. At that time, a rural lady passes through the sandy by-way with her prized buffalo—a monstrous one with horns turned back along its neck and back, so long and heavy I am shocked that she can balance them while walking. Her young offspring tags after the both of them. The eagle plays it safe and lifts himself out of the water with a quick down-thrust of its wings. He swoops and careers at a low level along the river's course, then lands to take a third dip in the water.

In the evening, I discover a pond full of white water lilies close to the cremation shed. Nearby an eagle is perched in a palm tree. He does not fly away at my approach, but moves his head slightly up and down to let me know that he has noticed me. I return early the next morning to find him sitting on the same palm frond. It is early enough that no one is around to disturb my peace. Contentedly, I sit on my straw mat appreciating the lilies that are half opened, admiring two turquoise kingfishers on a nearby stubby reed, and enjoying the antics of a small water snake as he glides through the water.

Too soon, though, the local male genre begin arriving to dip their tails in the pond. Oh, dear, the first fellow is dipping right where I have been watching the snake. So this idyllic pond is a toilet too. I reconcile myself to the reality and never return. I eventually give up the plan to sit for a morning contemplation of nature as there is simply no good bird-watching spot that is not near the water, therefore, used as the local toilet. I occasionally pass that way on my evening walks, but I never see the eagle again.

December 27, 1990
When I go out at the first crack of dawn for my morning stroll, I am thrilled to see that the river has returned. The two narrow channels are now broad and indolent, so the flow is about the same as when I arrived. The sun begins to send shades of rose to announce its arrival. The water catches the color and robes the river with shades of orange for a royal start of the day. Only myself and an errant bat, winging its way to its daytime hideout, are present to admire it.

As usual at 9:00 a.m., I go out to the garden bench with a book to partake of sun rays and birds' songs. Every day I like to practice consciously being grateful for being here in this beautiful environment. Ram Sadhu is usually sitting nearby on the bench by his cottage.

"One can get so many books, but you must read only those written by people of experience. That book, Serpent Power, written by. . . . Well, I can't recall his name."

"Woodruff? John Woodruff? He was actually an accomplished yogi?"

"Oh yes, he studied and practiced all these things and understood them from firsthand experience."

"I bought that book when I was here in 1979, but I never had time to even open it when I returned home. It remains packed in a box."

"Too bad. You would have learned a lot. You must awaken that serpent power that sleeps in the mooladhara [the root energy center]. That subtle force is like an electrical force. There are two levels of electricity: material and spiritual. The material level is the body. It is only electricity, vibration. After that serpent power awakens and pervades the body, every cell vibrates with sound. After that there is light—only light."

He pauses, then continues, " Don't your scriptures also say, 'If your eye be single, your whole body will be filled with light'? It's one and the same light, for ultimately there is only one light in creation."

"Is the sound like Om?"

"Not really; it's not like a sound you can vocalize. But you can say Om is a symbol for that primordial sound."

With a gleam in his eye, he wiggles his finger back and forth while moving it upward. "That's the power like the serpent that raises you to God."

"But in the Old Testament, it was the serpent that caused the downfall of man."

"That is another thing, not this at all."

I later wondered if the serpent of the garden was the crocodile in the Hindu system. It sits in the second chakra that represents the seat of passion—and power. Weren't Adam and Eve seeking power—the power to become as gods?

In the evening the water is even higher, too deep to wade across, leaving me stranded on the civilized side of the river for my walks.

"Ah, the river has at last become a river, Swamiji."

"Yes, it is coming. They empty that dam into three separate rivers, so we don't know when we will get our ration. It will soon fill up to the steps."

After a short walk in the bamboo grove, I return to the sandy beach to sit and watch the sunset. The sunsets in the South are slow and languid, especially compared to the sun's quick exit in the mountains of the North. The long, broad strokes of bright rose remain brilliant for a long time, almost as if it had decided to become a permanent set on the world scene. Often, several phases of color spread across the westerm sky, but tonight the rose hue lasts, then, ever so imperceptibly, slowly deepens and darkens. A lone crow appears graceful as it wings its way to the woods for rest.

December 29, 1990
There is no sunrise this morning as dark gray clouds hang in the East. Only a faint color reflects in the clear band on the western horizon. Since we are about fifty miles inland, we only catch the edge of the monsoon that travels up the east coast. I bet Usha is getting inundated in Pondicherry. In the early days of the rainy season in November, the storms are so massive this distance makes little difference, but they taper off by late December.

I put on a sweater to sit out on my bench for reading and thinking. Caught up with life, we never have time to question the mystery of the world with its immensity of implications. In our fixed track from home to the office, from the refrigerator to the TV, who takes time to explore the marvels of nature—the melodious song hidden in a bird's egg, the fluttering of jeweled wings concealed in a fuzzy caterpillar, the spreading oak tucked in a tiny acorn?

Who indeed can understand these unfathomable secrets of nature? We even ignore and never wonder at the mysteries we carry within. How did we know how to build this physical body—by what intelligence? And our dream selves, where do we get the eyes, ears and mouth to see, hear and speak in our dreams? How do we make the sounds that we hear, the images that we see? While dreaming, we are the set artist, the actor on the stage and writer and director—all in one. Surely, contemplating these things should be sufficient to cause us to appreciate and wonder daily at the mystery that we are.

Ram Sadhu walks over to the gate, opens it, and stands watching the river. After some minutes, he speaks to the boys playing in the sand. They have ten days' vacation after exams, but most of the boys from the orphanage remain here, having no home to return to. Although most of them do have one parent alive, the parent will be living in the streets. Even though I never understand a word, it is always a joy to see the Sadhu talking with them. He speaks so sweetly and lovingly, showing genuine interest in them.

I remain on the bench reading when out of the corner of my eye I catch the orange of Ram Sadhu's clothes rounding the corner going back to his cottage. At that moment, a bulbul breaks into song. A wave of sweet peace arises from I know not where. My eyes close in sweet contentment. This world and this Sadhu are amazing. What wonder I experience as my mind spreads out to experience the joy of creation, the joy of the birds who chirp, the sun that gives light, the leaves that give shade, the flowers that give delight, the earth that gives support, the breeze that cools and caresses my skin.

When it becomes too hot, I go to my room to write in my journal. Afterwards, to stretch my legs and breathe some fresh air, I walk outside to check to see if the river is still rising. I walk down the stairs and across the sandy beach to its edge. Calmly I stand watching the widening expanse of water running to the sea. The sight tells me something about the combination of the flow and foundation of life. The masters say that shakti (energy, power) can be drawn into the body from different sources such as the sun, water, fire, lightning, air and ether. I would also add, especially flowing water. In the Chinese Buddhist tradition, several monks were enlightened while watching the flow of a river, so I am not the only one who thinks so.

A pool is forming in the hole that the boys have hollowed out the last few days—bucket by bucket—carrying sand to their playground. This morning they dug a canal from the hole to the river so that it would fill up with water. I turn to return to the ashram and catch a flash of orange turn from the fence. The Sadhu was watching me. I had suspected so before, but this is the first time I actually caught him. When I climb the steps, he is stooped over his flowers with his back to me. As I reach my porch, I realize that again I am experiencing a wave of indescribable peace. It feels as the cells of my body are waking to a wonderful aliveness. It is kind of like the feeling of anxiety, but that feeling is hot and oppressive, whereas this feeling is cool and comfortable. So the Sadhu may be getting through my thick hide after all.

 

Chapter Twenty-eight

The Sadhu


It drizzled all night last night, but cleared with the early rays of the sun. I approach the beach cautiously as there are five or six stray dogs lying on the sand. As usual, they don't seem to notice me. Little wonder, they must be tired from barking for hours last night. The rising sun is obscured by one huge cumulus cloud that looks like a giant rooster striding across the sky. Its comb, beak and tip of the raised wing are back-lit with golden pink. A large column of darker pink reflects in the rippling river, now in full flow, from bank to bank. The ripples magnify and play with the bright color, outlined by dark gray on one side and by clear pale blue on the other.

"Good morning, Swamiji. The river is flowing; the sun is shining; the birds are singing; that is all."

He then chants a verse by the Vedantic sage and poet, Ram Tirtha:

I will tell you my supreme vocation,
Before me there was no creation
It was I who raised the sun out of the sea.

At least every other day, I go to the cottage of Siva RamaKrishna to discuss the Ramanaya. Our conversations are always informative, but the most interesting part is when he talks about Ram Sadhu's past. He told me that the principal benefactor of the ashram and school was a Jain merchant. Years ago, his young son fell into the river and was being carried away. The few bystanders were helpless, for Indians do not know how to swim. Ram Sadhu happened to be just downstream from the commotion. Seeing the boy floating by, he jumped in the water and saved him. The father showed his gratitude by contributing generously to the charitable institutions here.

Siva RamaKrishna also told me that Ram Sadhu was quite an expert in herbal healing. In fact, when he came to Kumbakonam, he began to prepare his herbs for the local people. Of course, more and more people came for his medicines. Originally, he had come to this area with a guru, who returned a year later to behold his student totally immersed in making medicines for everyone.

"I left you here to do sadhana. You could have stayed at home in Lahore if you were going to do this work," his guru admonished him.

Ram Sadhu got the message and threw all of his pots for herbal preparations into the river. However, he does do one "work", as he refers to it. Every morning after the boys put out fresh flowers on the altar at the school, they bring him all the old ones. The Sadhu spreads them out on a couple of burlap bags, turning them several times during the day to make sure they dry out well. Then, just at dusk, peak mosquito time here, the brahmachari brings some coals from the kitchen in a small cast-iron brazier. The Sadhu sprinkles the dried flowers over the coals, producing a thick black smoke—a natural mosquito repellent.

Once when it was sprinkling, I put the burlap bags under the benches, so the flowers would not get wet. The Sadhu saw me from his open-air room and called to me, "You leave those alone. That is my work."

"I am just putting them out of the rain. It's sprinkling."

"Oh, that's okay then," he replied.

Today while he is fussing with the flowers, I pick up a handful of neem berries from my porch and take them over to ask him if they have some use.

"Yes, for medicine. They are one ingredient in the medicine I make for the children when they get a cold."

He pauses to take them and examine them. "Where did you get them?"

"Right in my yard, the crows are eating some and knocking others down."

He looks up and laughs at seeing the crows in the very top of the tree, clinging to the end of the branches where the tree forms its bitter fruit.

"Ah, look at them enjoying the Life."

The chubby swami who has been my next-door neighbor left today to visit another ashram to help a sick friend. His name is Karunananda (bliss of compassion), but I call him Khanananda (bliss of food). This is the negative aspect of my sense of humor, criticizing this swami behind his back. However, I do refrain from sharing this label with others. It does seem that this swami's chief interest is food. With plastic tote over his arm, he takes off to the market every day. When I pass his door before mealtime, I always hear the sound of grinding or chopping, as he is preparing chutney or condiments to spice up the bland food. Although he eats the ashram food, and plenty of it, he never eats with us. He picks up his filled plate in the kitchen and returns to his room, always taking his time to check carefully to be sure the brahmachari has served him every dish. He reprimands the brahmachari sharply if he thinks he has missed out on something.

Within a week of my arrival I knew that Swami Khanananda would be leaving soon. Therefore, I knew the time was limited that I had to listen to the noise from his radio, particularly the news in Hindi. There is so much static I wonder how he understands anything. Then there is the noise of his morning ablutions. He's up at 5:30 a.m. to start the day with those horrific hawking sounds that the Indians seem to think are necessary for their daily cleansing. One morning I saw Siva RamaKrishna from across the garden; he was out by his cottage gagging away. Thinking he was ill, I grabbed the Nux Vomica remedy and went rushing over to rescue him. He told me that he was onlydoing his daily hawking routine. I'm still not sure, he looked awfully pale to me.

Swami Khanananda does not seem to fit into the ashram life, for he is always late for the afternoon class. It must be a terrible nuisance for him to have to listen to Ram Sadhu compliment my ability to sit for an hour on the floor without moving, as he seems to be unable to sit still for even five minutes. The possibility also exists that he does not want a woman in the ashram, for he has never spoken to me once. This attitude is a bitter pill for most, particularly European, women. They take it as an insult that women have to be covered from head to toe, while men runabout in a simple loin cloth—even nude. This behavior is based on the belief that the men will easily be tempted by the sight of a woman's flesh, whereas women are above such wanton desire.

Sunday always brings visitors from town. A priest comes to give a discourse on the Bhagavad Gita in Tamil. Since I understand nothing, I use the time to meditate, although it is difficult as the priest speaks in a loud sing-song voice. One regular Sunday visitor is Mr. Guruswami, a retired engineer. He is a very kind person and always interviews me: Anything you need? Things going well? How about the food? How long will you stay? When are you leaving for Pondicherry?

Then he flies over to the Sadhu's cottage; I suppose to give him a report. In any case, during the interrogations, I am able to gleam tidbits of information on India's culture. He told me that he figured out what my name means: nan is the "I" and "my" thought, that is, the ego; si means "discordant." So my name in Tamil translates to mean: "the one discordant, or dissatisfied with, the ego."

This morning he asks me to give him some insights of the point of view of "you people" in regard to several religious ideas, like "Why are we born?" and "What is the meaning of life?"

"Well, I think you know that Christians do not believe there is any meaning to life itself. When a human is born, it is a random happening, entirely of biological origins."

"That could not be so. Because I have heard the Christians speak of eternal life."

"But when they speak of eternal life, they only mean life continues after death, not that it existed before birth."

"But how can something be eternal that did not already exist before birth, it is a contradiction in logic. Don't they think. . . ."

"No, they do not think," I cut him short. "Christianity is a religion of faith, not logic. That's why so many Eurpopeans and Americans come to India."

"But faith in what? Faith in your innate divinity?"

"Well, certainly, Christ did speak of our divinity, but that is not the basis of faith. The words of Christ are the basis of faith, but not those particular words that speak of our innate divinity, for the Christians are more interested in our innate condition of sin. Really, it's not that easy to explain." I pause a moment, then make another attempt. "Since we are born in sin, the purpose of life is to be saved from our sinful state. So the purpose of life is to be saved through Christ's intervention, but there is no meaning to life itself."

Mr. Guruswami remains speechless, so I continue: "As I see it, Hinduism has three essential things that Christianity lacks: First, a credible philosophy and logic to back up the religious practices. Second, in India, in every generation, there has been a continual flow of God-realized saints to guide and inspire the populace. Third, among these saints, there have always been scholarly sages who have interpreted the scriptures according to their unique social conditions and time in history. So due to this continual renewal, the religion has remained viable.

"The utterances of these sages are treated with the same respect as those of the ancient sages because the wisdom is from the same fount, the sanatana dharma, the 'eternal wisdom' that is humanity's birthright. The inspired Biblical writings ended in 30 AD, but the inspired writings never end in Bharata.

"How can a religion that says there is one teacher, and he has said it all, remain flexible and fresh? But we must not concern ourselves, the Christians, along with the Buddhists and Muslims, remain very happy believing they are the only ones who are going to heaven," I finally finish my tirade.

He immediately interjects, "To heaven? We don't want to go to heaven; heavenly pleasures are only a temporary stepping-stone to another life on earth. We enjoy there only as long as our punya, merit, lasts. Then when the punya is exhausted we have to return for another human birth until we have our final birth—when we realize our innate divinity."

"Hummm. Well. . ." He's sure got me stuttering now. "Let's see. If heaven is only temporary, then hell might only be temporary too. Then how could the preachers scare people into heaven? You see they need us to believe there is only one life."

"One life time per person?" he questions.

"Yes, one life time per person to do it all," I reply.

"Hummm. That would be rather limiting, wouldn't it."

When Mr. Guruswami came today, he presented me with a nimbu, lime, to ward off evil spirits for the new year. He also gave me the addresses of two relatives in Pondicherry, should I need anything while I am there. He has known Ram Sadhu for many years and has started putting together a biography from information he has gleamed directly from Ram Sadhu and other devotees.

He is very talkative and is quite happy to fill me in with some details of Ram Sadhu's life as Sundar Das. We are such creatures of curiosity to be intrigued by a sage's personal history. As if "counting other people's money" will benefit us. It is hard to believe, but Sundar Das served in the British military in World War I in Mesopotamia. That's how he got his "right-o" jargon.

As his strapping 6' 2" body testifies, the future Sadhu was born in Punjab to a distinguished family of Jallian Brahmans, who had served as ministers to the kings in that area. The kings always gave land to those who served them, so the Brahmans lived a simple life with family property to support themselves. Their role in the society was to give spiritual, as well as practical, advice. In Punjab, they also excelled in herbal healing, Ayurveda, and were the only doctors in that area.

Although his earliest childhood was embellished with all his wishes fulfilled, Sundar Das received a blow early in life. For when he was eight years of age, his father died, leaving his young wife with three sons to support. We can assume they had cows for their own milk and grew enough wheat and vegetables for the maintenance of the household. But never fruits or vegetables to sell; for a Brahman is a Brahman, and a merchant is a merchant.

As her ancestors had done, Prema Mata, his mother, continued in the role of a healer. She would have helped pick and prepare the herbs for her father when she was a child, and later helped her husband in the same way, so she was already practiced in the healing arts. With this service, she made some extra income to purchase clothes, utensils and other necessary household items, including her sons' education. Since there were no schools in that small village, she had to pay room and board, as well as tuition, in the nearest town. When the eldest brother finished his education, he left for Burma to make his fortune.

Sundar Das had started his education in a near-by Muslim school, where he mastered Urdu. To continue his education, he had to go to the county seat to attend a government school to the eighth standard, taught in Hindi. For high school, he enrolled in the English-medium Christian school that his two older brothers had attended. However, he had only completed the ninth standard when his second brother left for Burma, also to earn money. Sundar Das was then called home to help his mother with managing their farm and preparing of the herbs.

As in all villages across India, festivals were a highlight of the year. However, there was another common entertainment in the villages, that was reenacting the dramas of the epics, particularly, the Ramanaya in the North. There were troupes that traveled through the countryside, but each village also had its own local talent. The villagers never tired of seeing these local productions of their ancient heroes. Although Sundar Das eagerly participated in these dramas, he particularly liked playing the role of Hanuman, the hero-monkey who was Rama's most ardent devotee in the Ramayana. Having easily become an expert in boxing, wrestling and gymnastics during his one year at the Christian school, he trained the other village lads in these sports. They would also demonstrate their athletic feats in the village gatherings. So Sundar Das was living a quiet life in a quiet village when his brothers returned from Burma, deposited a fund in a bank account for the maintenance of their mother, and renounced life in the world. They both left for the Himalayas to take the sannyasa vows and were never heard from again—not even one letter to the family. Now that is a pakkha (perfect) sannyasa.

The young Sundar Das did not know what to do with himself, so he joined the British army when he was only seventeen. He ended up in the middle East as a clerk in a military hospital, along with over one million Indian troops who were shipped to Mesopotamia during World War I. I have never understood exactly why there were so many Brahmans, the priest and educator caste, in the British military. One obvious reason is the British were taking over their traditional role as educators and, in the North, doctors. In addition, the British were usurping the small kingdoms, so there were no longer kings to advise. Another reason is that the Brahmans were more educated than the general populace. Therefore, Brahmans were prevalent in all government services, especially since they had a proficiency for learning languages, which the British lacked. So these native clerks translated between the local populace and their British captors. After the war, Sundar Das returned to India and continued as a military clerk in Lahore.

While working in the big city, Lahore, Sundar Das became aware of the India Freedom Movement. World War I had brought some rude awakenings for the Indians. The Indians, even Gandhi, had been duped into thinking that if they helped the British in the war, Britain would consider them worthy of independence—at least, dominion status. I have not been able to find total numbers, only references here and there. Some 17,000 who were captured by Rommel in North Africa were distributed in prison camps in Germany. An additional 29,000 Indian troops were sent to guard the Suez Canal that had been commandeered by the Europeans. One contingent of 12,000 Indians was devastated due to lack of supplies and ammunition. Interesting to note, the British Government had sent T.E. Lawrence, the man they considered most capable of negotiating with the Turks, to Baghdad to attempt to gain the Indian army's freedom, but to no avail. The incident of leaving these men stranded to die was considered of such gravity that the British Secretary of State of India (in London) resigned.

In those early days, V.D. Savarkar, Bal Gangadhar Tilak, and Aurobindo Ghosh led the freedom movement. They moved around in the North, definitely the most politically active area. Sunder Das served as a body guard to the speakers at several rallies. When he witnessed the devastation in the Jalianwala Bagh Massacre in April of 1919, he was more determined than ever that Indians should be freed from these "civilized" oppressors.

Another important influence emerged during those years. In 1918, Sundar Das met his first spiritual guru, Swami Anamananda. We tend to picture monks living in remote caves, but in both the Hindu and Buddhist traditions, many authentic holy men often visited towns where there were many pious householders. Staying only a few days in any one home, they gave practical suggestions about any problems facing the family, as well as spiritual guidance. Perhaps, one motive was to look for potential students. Swami Anamananda must have seen in Sundar Das a bright, intelligent, inquisitive, healthy young man, who had the qualifications for a spiritual student worthy of his time and attention. They had long private discussions. I sometimes wonder if some of Ram Sadhu's words to me now are the same words that his Guru told him so long ago.

Prema Mata was watching the political and spiritual activities of her son and was concerned, especially when he was imprisoned twice. She saw only one solution: tie him down in marriage. And that is what she did. He did not have the right, or the conscience, to say "no" to his mother. She had already lost two sons to the spiritual ashrama; she needed a daughter-in-law to help her in the household and care for her in her old age. Returning to his childhood village, at the age of 22, Sundar Das was married to Amrith Kaur, only 15 years of age. In the following five years, they had three lovely daughters and lived a simple life with no wants, nor luxuries.

Sundar Das continued living the life of a normal Brahman householder, maintaining his family and serving the community in whatever way that he could. However, an unfortunate incident occurred that caused him to totally re-evaluate his life.

It happened that one of his neighbors was a goldsmith. Somehow a gold ring turned up missing at his shop. The goldsmith accused Sundar Das of taking the ring. Sundar Das had been taught from a young age to tell the truth and he never deterred from that training. When he denied taking the ring, he thought everyone would believe him. But the goldsmith kept harassing him and even accusing him publicly.

One day Sundar Das had had enough and shook the goldsmith up a bit. The village council levied a heavy fine against him because of the incident. The worst of it was that Prema Mata even doubted him and meted out the worst punishment possible for a Hindu son: she stopped speaking to him.
What kind of world is it that values a gold ring over the word of an honest man, he questioned? He seriously mulled over the situation and formed his own conclusion. "This world is not the place for an honest man, so it's not the place for me." One morning at daybreak, without informing his wife or mother, he left for the holy city of Haridwar to begin his life as a sadhu. He innately felt this calling for some years, yet he had been obligated to continue to take responsibility for his mother. Now that his mother and wife were financially stable, he thought the incident a sign that he should take the step to renounce the world.
                                                                                      .   .   .   .   .

When I return to my room after dinner, at about 8:30 p.m., I have a little time to read. Since everyone else goes to their rooms too, some nights I sit out on the cement bench alone in the dark. I have never had the opportunity to enjoy nighttime like I have here. Daytime is the manifestation of Life's activities; night is Life itself. I watch the stars, listen to the trees swaying, enjoy an occasional chirp of a cricket or croak of a frog, and savor a gentle breeze that surrounds me with wonderful fragrances of jasmine. It feels so good to be part of this enchantment, but I must go to rest. My light is always out by 10:00 p.m. at the latest, in preparation for my 4:00 a.m. arising.


Chapter Twenty-nine

The Brahman and the Ramayana

As dawn's first light sends reflections along the river every morning, the Brahman makes his way to its waters to perform his daily ablutions and recitations, including the Gayatri Mantra. This mantra is an invocation to Savitri, the intelligence that enlivens the sun. The petitioner requests that this powerful intelligence guide him throughout the day.

Let us meditate on the most excellent
Light of Savitri
May he guide our intellect.

Throughout Bharatha's long history, all Brahmans have recited this short verse from the Rg Veda at the three principal times of the day: sunrise, moon, sunset. Seemingly, the tradition is rarely practiced in today's world, for the Brahmans are occupied reciting stock indexes on Wall Street and in Bombay stock exchange. However, in the awsome stretches of rural south India, the tradition remains viable.

Every morning and every evening, I have the pleasure of watching Siva RamaKrishna make his way to the river with a big brass pot on his head, then hearing him recite his prayers. Afterwards, he returns with the pot, filled with holy water from the Kauveri, back to his hut. Watching this trip back through the centuries gives me a very soothing and secure feeling, I feel grateful that some things never change.

The essential purpose of the Vedas is to insure the well-being of all aspects of the creation. While in a high intuitive state, the ancient rshis became aware of the subtle cosmic vibrations that had become denser, then intermingled into patterns, which we perceive with our sense organs as the various forms and objects of the material world.

Thus the Vedic mantras (verses) were intuited in a timeless state to be used in the realm of time. The actual chanting of the mantras is an important aspect of the protective and creative power of Vedas. The chanting assures the alignment of the physical world with the original creative vibrations, whereby humankind can live in harmony with his subtle origins. Therefore, a group of people, that is, the ones of subtle mind, began to chant the mantras and to perform the Vedic rites for the welfare of humanity.

Since the purpose of chanting the mantras is to create a harmony between the original sounds of creation and the invoker of the mantra, the correct innovation of words is necessary for the mantras to retain and manifest their innate power. This is the reason that the sages warn that a modification in the chanting of a Vedic mantra will produce no effect.

This same phenomenon exists even in our everyday world. When I, with my American accent, asked for the bus to Basavanagudi at the Bangalore bus station, all I got was "No English," from the official sitting at the information table. I think I am pronouncing an Indian word, but he thinks I am speaking English. It is only when a kind person, standing to the side, speaks up and repeats the word, Basavanagudi—just exactly like I thought I said it—that the face of the official lights up in recognition. Then he enthusiastically directs me to the correct bus.

The Gayatri is considered the most important of the Vedic mantras, as it is a prayer, an invocation and a creative power, all in one. This Mantra specifically requests: "May my actions be in harmony with the highest intelligence," that is, the highest good. Its repetition the first thing in the morning tunes the mental attitude for the day to the station that brings forth one's best qualities. So our actions, which are often merely mechanical impulses from past experiences, begin to have some moments of conscious content.

A deity is associated with each mantra. The deity provides a symbol with which the mind collects positive ideas and inspirations. The Gayatri Mantra is addressed to Savitri. Savitri's name is from the Sanskrit root Su = to excite or stimulate; therefore, his name can be translated as: The stimulator of everything. He is not the physical sun, but a power because of which there is a sun. The Gayatri is concerned with humanity and the universe, plus the Unknown that sustains them.

One afternoon, I go over for another long discussion with Siva RamaKrishna. He is such an endless fountain of knowledge that I only go to his cottage every other day, or I would pass the whole day listening to and questioning him. He has translated the Ramayana by Tulasi Dasa into Tamil and has had it published through a trust to sell at the low price of 25 Rps. [$.80] for nine hundred pages. He has also translated it into English, but has been waiting for someone to check the English and give an opinion if it is worth publishing.

When I first met him, he told me that when he first saw me he was so happy; he felt that Rama himself surely had sent me here. This was news to me, as I had feared that the resident sadhus might consider a "foreign lady" an intrusion.

"Oh, no," he exclaimed, then explained that every letter that Gandhi wrote in English was first checked by Mirabhen, his English secretary, before it was released. I told him that I was helping with the editing of a spiritual magazine, so there was no reason I could not help him also.

"I don't want to put any burden on your head."

"No, I want to read the Ramayana anyway. Also, I have a knack for editing, so it will be no burden. That is, if there is no pressure of a deadline."

"Oh, no. It's been sitting in Madras for three years now, waiting for someone like you to come along."

Siva RamaKrishna had been a professor of English literature in a small university. His father had died when he was a teenager; therefore, for many years he was the sole support of his mother. I never asked, but assumed, this was the reason that he never married. A son who is responsible for the support of a widowed mother has a mark against him on the eligibility list for marriage. When she died and the necessary rituals were completed, Siva RamaKrishna resigned his job, gave up his home, and started living the life of a sadhu. He had lived in various ashrams until he discovered Ram Sadhu about ten years ago.

Since then, he has spent most of his time here in a small hut beside the master's. In addition, his interest in the Ramayana has taken him to Ayodhya, the birthplace of Rama. While in that region, he became acquainted with the Mahant there. Unlike the Shankara Mathas whose heads are picked for scholarly and spiritual achievement, the position of the Mahant in the North is simply purchased; we will assume by one who has spiritual aspirations. Evidently the current Mahant was not particularly schooled in the scriptures because he was quite pleased to find a scholarly assistant like Siva RamaKrishna. He wanted the Brahman to remain in the North all year, but the Brahman protested that a south Indian cannot endure the winters of the North.

One day he tells me, "You know when I came here some ten years back, it was Ram Sadhu who came to me one day and placed a Tulasi Ramayana in my hand with the words. 'This is to be your life work from this day,' he told me. Since that day I have been totally immersed and completely satisfied with its study. So you see how insightful these great ones like Ram Sadhu are."

The Ramayana is the history of an Incarnation—God born as man without any veil: his birth as the Prince Rama, his marriage, the loss of his kingdom, his separation from his wife, and the subsequent battle with the demons of the world to reunite with her. Filled with wisdom on the morals and ethics faced in the drama of human life, it is also interspersed with expositions of the highest eternal truth: We are Divine. In addition to Rama's and Sita's history, it is filled with the traditional stories of the Indian sages and kings. More than any other literary work, it represents the heartbeat of Bharatha. All castes and creeds, particularly in the North memorize this Tulasi version, rendered in poetry. Last year when the Ramayana was playing on national television, trains did not move until the one hour episode was over. Yes, train stations in the large towns have television screens dangling from the platform ceilings, but not in the waiting rooms.

One afternoon, Siva RamaKrishna covers a portion of the Ramayana that includes material that Ram Sadhu acclaims is wonderful. He often interrupts the Brahman's commentary with comments, praising some thought, or even singing the verses, but he is more exuberant than usual today. His expressed joy is infectious. It makes one wonder how the world must look through his eyes.

Often I muse during my travels what it would be like to have a Hindu mindset. If I were to tell Ram Sadhu that I was born a sinner, doomed to hell, he would topple over in disbelief. I try to imagine what it would have been like to be raised with the conditioning, "I am a child of light." The Vedas state that only an inherent illusion keeps me from seeing this Truth. Due to this Ignorance, we become involved in the world and accumulate mala, or dirt, that covers our divinity, just as soot collected on a kerosene lamp glass obscures the light of the flame. So we have a simple task in life: remove the dirt, or simply realize the illusion, or impermanence, of the dirt. Even on a cloudy day, the sun is shining.

After class I ask Siva Ramakrishna to show me in my English translation the particular passage that Ram Sadhu was revering today. I just love this edition of the Ramayana. It's a beautiful rendition translated by a British missionary, Dr. Atkins. Obviously inspired while accomplishing the arduous task, he actually used a poetic format in the meter of the original Tulasi Dasa version in Prakrit language. Just reading the words in English inspires an open, expanded consciousness. It's obvious that the work was a labor of love for Dr. Atkins.

He tells me the passage he covered today is from a conversation of Laksmana, Rama's brother, with Guha, the ferryman who will take Laksmana across the river to meet his brother. Please note there is no copyright for this translation, in spite of the Western capitalist influence, most spiritual works are still not copyrighted in India. Thank god, these precious veins of the uniqueness of the Bharathis, "the children of light," still exist. Everything has not been swept away by "western civilization." But for how long?

The passage that Ram Sadhu was so excited about is so short that I want to reproduce Laksmana's words for you here:

No man can give sorrow or joy to another,
It's always the fruit of one's own actions, brother,
Uniting, dividing, foul pleasers or fair,
Evil, good, or indiff'rence—'tis delusions snare;
Of life and of death the world's course is the reason,
Of all gain and loss, of each fruit in its season;
One's city and fam'ly, land, riches and home,
Even life and death too, in the world's course must come,
But listen and note and take heed in your soul—
All these things are unreal, bring us not to our goal.
Just as in their dreaming, kings may become beggars,
And beggars may well become gods,
But waking find no gain or loss, so to us
Is this delusive life with its odds.
So consider this well, and with anger have done;
For these troubles put uselessly blame upon none,
Here we are all asleep and we see many dreams,
But because of illusion, real ev'ry one seems;
In this night-like world those devoted ones waken
Who, seeking the real, have all false things forsaken.
Know this—Only then the soul wakens to morn,
When it turns from all sensual pleasures with scorn
When the soul wakens falsehood and error must flee;
Then to Rama's blest feet one devoted can be;
In thought, word and deed to his feet when devoted;
The chief good of life is then ours, be it noted;
For Rama is Brahma[n], of all good the essence,
Eternal, unseen, filling all with his presence,
Unequaled, above all division and change;
Scriptures show Him to be far beyond our mind's range.
For the sake of the faithful, mankind, Brahmans, cows
And gods also, he's come in his kindness;
He's taken man's form and assumed human ways;
Hearing this, men are freed from their blindness.
Understand this friend; leave behind dreams and deceit;
Be devoted to Sita's and Raghubir's [Rama's] feet.

I sit out on the garden bench to read it aloud, so I can appreciate the meter of the poetry. In a short time, the Sadhu appears, so I mention that I have just read the words of Laksmana.

"Those words are so esteemed that they have been named the Laksmana Gita [song]."

"Oh! He expresses so beautifully that Rama is the presence in all. So Rama is what you have been calling the Life."

"The same. Rama is that very force, but he took an Incarnation, so that man may know about the Life. But don't think you'll figure it out; it's beyond the intellect."

Eventually, I get Siva RamaKrishna to talk about himself more. He was a young boy during the India's independence movement.

"You mentioned Gandhi. Did you know him personally?"

"No, I never met him. You see our leader here in the south was Rajagopalachari. Father wanted to join the satyagraha movement, but Rajaji told him true satyagraha was living the principles in one's own home. We spun cotton for our own clothes, planted our vegetables, and lived as if we were in an ashram right in our own home.

"Rajaji was a great man; he does not get the credit he deserves. He did have his own ashram in Tiruchengode here in Tamil Nadu."

"I know there was quite an outcry from the Tamilians when he was not included in the film, Gandhi," I mention.

"Well, I know all these Indians with their difficult names are hard to keep up with, so it was probably a justifiable omission. Did you see the film?"

"Yes, it was quite good. Except for one point, which unfortunately occurred right at the beginning of the movie. When Gandhi was assassinated, he uttered two words, 'He Ram.' To a Hindu it is considered most auspicious to invoke the name of the Lord at the moment of death. However, when they translated it into English for the movie, they had him say, 'Oh, God' which sounded more like 'Oh, no,' so it distorted the meaning entirely."

"That is most unfortunate. 'Oh, God' would not convey the true meaning at all," he agreed.

I reply, "To me that one utterance, more than anything, proves his sainthood. Otherwise, it is rather hard for me to believe that he was a saint. To one who knows anything about his personal life, he is very controversial. How could the proponent of non-violence have been so dogmatic to his own children? Then there was his habit of living in luxurious homes of Indian millionaires, who clearly made their fortunes by exploition the poor. And his sexual hang-ups were just too blatant."

"You must mean Gandhi's experiments with sleeping with his niece? Not even the Indians approved. Patel told him he had to stop it, but Gandhi was a very stubborn man. In the end, Patel had to tell the niece to stop the experiment because it was harming Gandhi's image. She obeyed Patel."

"It seems to me that he even projected his sexual hang-ups on his own sons. After pumping out four children himself, he expected his sons to remain celibate. It's inhuman that a father won't let your own children make their own decisions on such essential matters as marriage and parenting. In fact, it is against the four ashramas of Hinduism," I observe.

"You are right. He did not get the idea from the rshis. But neither is the idea of asceticism, accompanied with celibacy, foreign to our tradition. Certainly, he must have been influenced by guilt about his early sexual activity."

"He was justified in resenting that his father forced him to marry at age thirteen. But his insatiable appetite at that age can hardly be blamed on his father. Anyway, why take it out on his sons?"

On second thought, I continue, "Of course, I know that he was not the only Indian revolutionary who was a tyrant over his family. Jinnah, the leader of the Muslim contingent of India, would not let his daughter marry a non-Muslim, although her mother was a Parsi. [Jinnah married back in the days when religion did not count so much.] Nehru's father, Motilal Nehru annulled his daughter's marriage to a Muslim."

Since the Brahman remains silent, I interrupt the silence, "This authoritarian side of Gandhi is not brought out in his profiles. I'm surprised that Patel had the nerve to defy him."

"Oh, yes. Patel was a powerful man with his own ideas; that's why Gandhi favored Nehru. He thought Nehru would be more obedient to his ideas. But Gandhi never chose Nehru as his successor."

"So Gandhi had not designated Nehru to be the leader of Congress, therefore, the first Prime Minister of India?"

"No, definitely not. Did you know that Gandhi asked Nehru to allow Jinnah to be the first Prime Minister? He thought that was a solution to the Muslim problem. But Nehru was ambitious; he flatly refused."

"I had forgotten that detail, but I think it was mentioned in the movie. That one act could have saved India so much grief. And since Jinnah had tuberculosis, he would have been dead and out of the picture in less than a year. I can't believe India's fate.

"You know Jinnah has always been a puzzle to me. I've seen photos of him around 1947 and anyone could have discerned that he was a very sick man; the symptoms of TB must have been well known in those days. The British authorities were stepping aside to allow him to incite a revolution and commandeer a part of India. I have to wonder if they actually knew he had a short time left on the planet. If so, what were their real motives?"

"There are many things that are just now coming out. Just the week before he was assassinated, Gandhi had dictated a letter to his secretary, telling the Congress National League to disband. It had been formed to gain independence for India, and that had been accomplished. He emphasized that it was not a political party. Different parties should be formed according to different ideologies to stimulate debate and reform on the central government level. But he died before that letter was actually signed and delivered. And the letter was suppressed for all these years."

"I'm afraid it's obvious who benefited from that. Nehru was able to run a one man show as head of the one viable political party—Congress. One biographer said he didn't trust any authority to anyone. . . But I'm really surprised the letter had not been destroyed," I remark.

"It was kept in some file, somewhere, and it was recently dug out. A lot of things about the Nehru family are coming out now also."

"Do you think there's anything to that persistent rumor that Nehru was half-brother to the prince of Kashmir, and that was the real reason he would not let the Kashmiris vote as they had been promised? He was protecting his own family—and we know family ties in India can be very strong."

The Brahman simply shrugs, then changes the subject. "Ram Sadhu's family lived in the part of Punjab that went to Pakistan."

"Oh, dear. There are so many horrible stories of the losses of property—and even lives—of the Hindus there."

"Oh, yes. It was a serious situation. Even Ram Sadhu went back to his former home to help his family move to the Indian section and to get situated in a new home here."

"Oh, it was great that he was able to do that. Of course, he is a man unto himself. It's not like he has to obey any rules of some monastic order or religion."

Further, RamaKrishna informs me that the Sadhu's wife has come here to Kumbakonam several times in the past ten years since Ram Sadhu has lived in the ashram. She likes to spend a month or so here in the holy atmosphere. She was seven years younger than he, so she must be ninety now.

Often we discuss some aspect of English literature. Although he had studied only a few American authors, RamaKrishna did read and appreciate Emerson.

"Actually Emerson was one of my favorite authors. Since I taught English literature, I was always happy to find insightful writing in English. I especially liked his poem Brahma, although he missed on the translation of the title. It should have been Brahman, the neuter form of brh, the Impersonal; not Brahma, the masculine form, which is the creator deity."

He turns and rummages through some papers, and pulls out a typewritten page. Then he reads the words,

If the red slayer think he slays,
Or if the slain think he is slain,
They know not well the subtle ways
I keep, and pass, and turn again.

Far or forgot to me is near;
Shadow and sunlight are the same;
The vanished gods to me appear;
And one to me are shame and fame.

They reckon ill who leave me out;
When me they fly, I am the wings;
I am the doubter and the doubt,
And I the hymn the Brahman sings.

The strong gods pine for my abode,
And pine in vain the sacred Seven;
But thou, meek lover of the good!
Find me, and turn thy back on heaven.

"That last line shows he truly understood that heaven is not a permanent abode. Pretty good for a Christian of his era," I observe.

"Yes, it is wonderful how some intellectuals of both America and Britain seriously studied the Hindu thought."

"Emerson must have been a contemporary of Thomas MacCauley, who wrote the most scathing criticism of Indian literature. So I'm glad both sides were represented."

Siva RamaKrishna has visited the site of the controversial temple site at the birthplace of Rama. The Moslems destroyed the original Hindu temple, as they had done across India for centuries. "Loot, then destroy, the temples of the idolaters" was their war cry. All the Indian news sources state that a Moslem mosque has been built on the site over the ruins of the original temple. Although it is hallowed ground to the Hindus, the Moslems will not release it back to them. But Siva Ramakrishna tells me another version.

"I have seen it with my own eyes, Nancy. I assure you there is no mosque there, and never has been. There is a monument to a war hero, but not a place of worship."

"That's strange. Why perpetuate this debate then?" I question.

"I tell you, there is something else going on. They have even moved in Moslems to live in that area to keep the dissension alive. And then there was that incident with the massacre of all those sadhus."

"Massacre of sadhus? I don't know anything about that," I exclaim.

"Yes. I understand the BBC carried the story, but it was totally suppressed in the Indian news. Hundreds of sadhus were advancing in mass to reclaim the Hindu sacred site from the Muslims. The Indian army troops arrived while they were still en route. The troops fired into the mob, killing hundreds of them. Then they loaded the bodies into lorries and carried them away. No one ever heard another word about it."

"That is really strange," I lament.

"But the details will have to come out. There is actual video footage of some of the massacre. It will be released when it is appropriate," he adds.

"So this is more than a religious feud. I cannot comprehend what the Government has to gain by keeping this heated battle going," I am quite perplexed.

"These things will all come out sooner or later."

The roof of the verandah of the Brahman's small hut is covered with an incredible vine that bears the loveliest lavender flowers, shaped like small trumpets with a scalloped edge. I am not the only one who enjoys them. Every time I come here I am able to see at least one extraordinary butterfly. All the common butterflies continually flutter through the garden here . The large black, white and fluorescent red one is always gliding about. They are so common here that I have come accustomed to its radiant presence, so I am no longer overwhelmed when I see one. A smaller white variety, veined with black is also plentiful. It appears rather plain until it folds its wings up and shows the orange and yellow underneath. Then one day a huge moth with mirrored wings shows up. I wonder if they were the inspiration for the mirror work on vests and bags made by the women in Rajasthan and Orissa. A couple of the school boys ran to get me to show it to me. I do not know how they knew I was a butterfly lover.

The next time I go to his hut to talk with him, I tell Shiva RamaKrishna, "I have really been thinking about Gandhi's situation. When I was only about fifteen I read a book that really impressed me, The Bridge of San Luis Rey by Thornton Wilder. I have often said that it was the only true wisdom I heard or read until I was at least twenty-five. Do you know it?"

"No, I don't."

"I know you were a professor of English literature, not American. Anyway, the premise of the book was that the moment of death is predetermined—and logical."

I go on to explain, "One bright day in the jungles of South America, a bridge collapsed, plummeting some one dozen people to their deaths. The author painstakingly traced the life of each one of these people to demonstrate that, at that precise moment, it was a perfect time for their life to end. But it's been so long since I read it that I can't even recount one single example.

"So if you use that same hypothesis for Gandhi's life, or simply karma, as you Hindus would put it, it does seem that Gandhi had done all he could. History was just moving in another direction; he was no longer needed. Maybe he even knew that his appeal to form parties would be ignored. Certainly, his economic and political policies were being ignored."

Siva RamaKrishna agrees, "Yes, he died exactly a year after our Independence, so by that time it was evident that Nehru was going his own way. Even at the moment of Independence, Nehru defied Hindu custom. The British always handed over the reins to the new government at midnight. Everyone warned Nehru: This is not an auspicious time for the birth of a nation. But Nehru just would not listen. In many ways, he was more British than the historians comprehend. He himself was a Brahman and should have understood these things."

"But he really knew little about the essence of Hinduism."

"No, he didn't know. He was a secular man. Gandhi saw all these things. Even Gandhi himself admitted that he was a failure."

"I didn't know that. Gandhi himself said he was a failure?"

"Oh, yes. At Independence, India erupted into a terrible civil war. He had no illusions about the failure of the Indians to rise to his ideals."

"I guess we all assumed that had it not been for him there would have been more violence."

"That is certainly true in limited instances because of the pressure of his fasting to end the killing. No one can fathom the number of Indians dead. There is no official account, but, I tell you, it was very disheartening—for all of us, and especially for Gandhi."

"The real enemy walked out unscathed, and the Indians killed each other. We Westerners called it a great success. So really Gandhi's non-violence just saved the British. I hope that is not why we have embraced it so."

While I am spending my usual hour in the morning sun reading, Ram Sadhu approaches me. "Now I want you to review that section of the Ramayana that we are going to read in class today. Tulasi Dasa recounts the best place for Rama to dwell. No one has ever written such a beautiful account of the residence suitable for Rama. Call it imagination or speculation, it doesn't matter. This section uplifts the aspiration of the sadhak [seeker]. That's all that matters."

I took my book to Siva RamaKrishna so he could point out the section to me. Just as we start discussing the pointers to indicate the best place for Rama to dwell, Ram Sadhu sticks his head in the door, "Is my daughter here?"

The Brahman jumps up to greet Ram Sadhu with a respectful salutation. The Sadhu places in his hands a couple of bananas and a nimbu for New Years.

Then he tells the Brahman: "I want her to understand the condition of that perfect temple where Rama dwells." He then turns his head to me and gives me a long meaningful look, "It is within."

"Yes, Swamiji, I suspected that."

As the Sadhu ducks out of the low door, Siva RamaKrishna sets the fruit aside, commenting, "He's always doing this kind of small thoughtful deed to all of us. He is always concerned for everyone else's welfare."

"Yes, he is a veritable ocean of sweetness. I know 'kindness' is the usual word, but whenever I think of him, 'sweet' is always the word that comes to my mind first."

"Yes, you are right; he is an ocean of sweetness."

"I feel so grateful to be here. My punya [merit from good deeds] must be considerable for me to be able to spend this special time on earth instead of waiting for heaven!"

 

Chapter Thirty

Punya Exhausted

Today, the last day of the year, I go into town today to pick up several items, including a lock to secure my belongings in a cabinet, so I won't have to cart them to Pondy for a week. I also drop by the train station to get the train schedules for Tanjavore as I may have to go Tanjavore occasionally to use the Speed Post service to send material back to Bombay. I also find the Gopal Row library where Mr. Guruswami borrowed my wonderful Ramayana book. It definitely has an adequate selection of books in English, all the Upanisads, Vedas, Puranas, and works of major sages. The librarian is willing to be cooperative about my borrowing books, so I will not have to worry about reference material for writing and editing.

When I return from town, I bring some Indian candies back with me. As I hand them to the Sadhu, he asks, "What is this?"

"It is written that the student should never come empty-handed to the Guru," I tease. "I know that there is nothing I can give you. I'm simply playing the game."

"Yes, we are not doing anything ourselves. You give with that hand; I take in this hand, but it is not you giving, nor me taking. It is the Life, only the Life. Without It, these hands will not move; they won't even exist."

After the class, Ram Sadhu passes out the sweets to everyone. "Ask her why she does these things," he tells Siva RamaKrishna.

"Tell him it's for my grandfather's family," I reply.

"But you are one of our family too, so there is no need," retorts the Brahman.

Again the brahmachari drops by to ask what I am doing when I am in my room. He does not seem to like the fact that I am working on the spiritual magazine. Since I had just finished up an issue in Pondy before coming here, I had not planned to be having any work to do either, but obviously it is as important as his daily newspaper reading. He even has tried to get me interested in the paper because occasionally there is some article about America, but I tell him I'm not interested. He is also reading a book by Swami Ramalinga, supposedly his first public talk. I mention that I visited the Swami's temple in Vadalur on my way to Kumbakonam. The book is a long one, some 1,000 pages thick. When I flip through it, I find it is similar to the one I saw in Vadalur, filled with cosmologies of all the different galaxies. Long lists that go on and on, not exactly light, or entertaining, reading.

My current project is to write a history on Sringeri, the monastery of the spiritual progenitor of the magazine. I thought I was taking a break, but the publisher thought I would have some extra time since I just completed an issue. Anyway, he sent me about a dozen Indian books to condense to one booklet, then he flew off for a vacation in Hong Kong. I suppose it is an improvement over several months ago when I waited a week in Bangalore for material to be edited, which I never received because he had flown off to vacation in Hong Kong, but I'm not really sure.

I have given most of the material a quick read through. Interestingly, a Sringeri Acharya also accomplished a disappearing act. Just like in Swami Ramalinga's case, he told no one to bother him for a certain length of time. Naturally, the devotees had to break in and check on him before the allotted time was up. On the bench where he had been seated laid a beautifully carved column, that is, half of one. They figured had they obeyed his instructions the column would have been completed. I'm always gleaning interesting information when I'm writing or editing for the magazine, so that's what keeps me at it.

It remains too cool for me to take the traditional sacred bath in the Kauveri, although the Brahman continues to enter the chilly waters every day. The weather has totally changed since the water is in full flow; it's cold, cloudy and damp. The Kauveri is called the Ganga of the South and held holy by all. The traditional belief that a dip in these holy rivers cleanse one of all mala, dirt, is surely dependent on the faith of the bather, a sort of baptism. I conjecture that most of us will not be transformed by this physical act.


January 1, 1991
New Year's morning dawns cloudy and gray. The fog has hung over the river like the breath of the earth dragon for several mornings. Just as I'm finishing reading a section of the Ramayana, I hear the unusual call of a bird, a loud trill repeated, repeated, and repeated again. It's just daylight, so I start out on my short morning stroll, hoping to catch a glimpse of the singer. I'm in luck for, on a small tree on the river bank, sits a turquoise and brown kingfisher. What a haughty fellow—to be so beautifully colored and have such a sonorous call. He soon flicks his wings and returns to the woods. I rarely see one of them at the river; this species usually hangs out at ponds.

In the afternoon, I get up early from my siesta, so I can bathe at least once in the waters of the holy Kauveri, for it is already disappearing fast. The water came up to the fifth step, but only for two chilly days. This morning it had withdrawn to the first step. I had hoped to be out when everyone was resting, but the Sadhu is already up and about, messing with his flowers, but with his back to me. I creep by silently, then admonish the squeaking gate to keep quiet as I slip down the stairs. I walk out one-third way across the river bed, but find no spot over a few inches deep. The main channel snakes back and forth between the two banks and hits the opposite shore in the ashram area. Anyway, I duck a couple of times, then just lie back to enjoy the water flowing over me. I would have liked to have had a swim. But the weight of my simple cotton pants and shirt are so heavy when wet, that I doubt I could have moved.

Later, that evening since I am still stranded on the north side of the river, I have been snooping about looking for possibilities for woods on this side. The bamboo forest beside the ashram does not attract any birds. Some of the clumps are growing naturally, but most of them are fenced in and tended to produce long straight poles for rafters and scaffolding. Returning to the ashram, I see the Sadhu out on the bench.

"It's poornima," I call to him.

"Yes, today is the full moon."

How many times have I watched the sun setting beyond the banks of the Kauveri, yet I've never seen two sunsets even slightly similar. Ah, yes the creator does love variety. Ram Sadhu tells me that the Hindu seers—who cataloged everything—had even counted 8,400,000 species in the creation. It's certainly possible. There are thousands of creepy-crawlies just here in the ashram.

I am awakened in the middle of the night by a growling dog. Oh, well, I think, it woke me up to do the pranayama. But when I go out in the morning I discover what the growling was about—the dog chewed up my invincible sandals, only the rubber soles are left. This means another trip to town. Fortunately, I find a old pair of men's rubber sandals to wear, so I do not have to travel barefoot.

I waste a lot of time looking for a shoe store because I do not know the shoe store row. The custom here of grouping all stores of the same type together, instead of sprinkling them throughout the town is a nuisance, especially when one does not know the spot. But you can be sure when I find one , there will be at least a dozen shops. Well, it makes comparative buying easy. While I'm in town, I consume a tender coconut and carry another one back for Siva RamaKrishna.

When I return, immediately I take it to him, "I know that since you are a south Indian you must love ilinir as much as I. Maybe I was a south Indian in a previous life."

"Well, that may actually be so. According to the Kanchi Acharya all of mankind lived together on one continent. More importantly, he asserts that everyone lived under the law and wisdom of the Vedas. Therefore, all people are ancestors of that original race and all religions are a branch of that original religion."

That afternoon in class, he covered the part of the story where King Dasaratha dies from grief because of Rama's banishment to the forest. From my reading, I know approximately where he is in the text, but I am startled when the Sadhu breaks out in tears. At first I think the intermittent sobbing is some breathing exercise. When I finally realize he is actually crying, I think maybe he saw a vision of my life, as he had been looking right at me—some of my antics would surely be enough to bring a pure man to tears!

That evening at supper I ask the brahmachari why Swamiji cried in class. He explains to me that it is because of his sorrow at the death of the honorable King Dasaratha. While I am outside washing my dishes, the Sadhu enters the kitchen hut. As I enter to tuck my stainless steel plate in the bamboo rafters to dry, I hear the brahmachari telling him that I had asked why he had cried.

The Sadhu turns to me, "My daughter, you must understand, this is my life. To me this is not just a story. For me it is all joy. But when I hear of the suffering of others, it brings tears to my eyes.
"All are crying 'I', 'I', 'I' but they never question who is this 'I'. An ocean of 'I's is the existence of sat-chit-ananda. That is Rama. Enjoy the Life."

"All else only nama rupa [names and forms]?"

"Yes, you understand."

The moon has not yet risen so the stars are unusually bright. A fire fly cries "I", "I", "I" as he lights up the shaded path under the sprawling neem tree. A gentle breeze waves the palm fronds and tousles my hair. It is "I"; it is "I."

January 3, 1991
I got up this morning fighting off dullness. I guess the limited hours of sleep have finally caught up with me. Only the thought "Swamiji deserves a better student than this" gets me moving. My body has already adjusted to the wood-plank bed, so discomfort is no longer an aid in getting me up in the morning.

Later, when I am sitting on my usual bench inside my open door, writing in my journal, the Sadhu comes up with his big toothless smile. He places a piece of paper with the words written on it:
Of what avail this body mind

If hearing God's performance fine
The heart breaks and then melts not
The eyes disclose tears gush not
The body does not shake and thrill
When the Lord's story his ears doth fill.

"So now you understand my tears?"

"Yes, Swamiji, I do understand."

"Of what use is this heart if it is not melting with the thought of God."

"I do understand."

We have a long rest period after lunch, from 12:30 p.m. to 3:00 p.m., so several times I've just lain on the bed and practiced some relaxation or meditation technique. One day I had actually not slept, but I remained very relaxed, then got up very refreshed after thirty minutes although I had not slept. This has not reoccurred, and some afternoons I am dead tired—sleeping for up to one and one-half hours. I fear that the pranayama technique has not helped my energy level as I had hoped it would. So today, instead of sleeping, I decided to ferret back through the files of my mind to see if there is some clue somewhere that I was destined for a spiritual life.

Nothing. Nothing. Nothing. Like everyone, I experienced my crystallization process in my childhood, especially after I started school. Those memories brought up some feelings, but certainly I never had any spiritual experiences, devout disposition, or any outstanding character. In fact I was normal, ordinary and middle class. I was kind to the underdog several times, more so than normal for my age, but beyond this rag yanked out of the bottom of the barrel to find "something," the barrel is empty. I think the making of the robots that schooling aims for, and achieves, is totally counterpoint to individual creativity and expression, although some adapt easier than others. In some way, I resisted, maybe by just never making studies important or giving my best, since it was so easy for me to get by without studying much. In itself, that presents no problem, but the fact I found nothing that merited giving my best to; yes, I think that has been an obstacle in my development.

When the brahmachari brings 3:00 p.m. tea, he is also carrying a new "Guest Book." On the first two pages are enumerated the rules for "Visitors and Devotees." First comes the announcement in bold letters that "Visitors and Devotees" are welcome for only three nights. Following is a declaration that there was no provision for anyone to stay permanently under any circumstance. The brahmachari tells me that the Sadhu had requested that he bring it to me to sign as the first guest.

Rejection, true and clear spreads over me and settles right in my gut. My intellect tells me that those two conditions could not apply to me since I am already here, but my feelings take no heed. Had not Ram Sadhu himself invited me to stay? Would not he directly tell me to go? I just have a feeling that this book was in fact created because of me. Oh, the anguish of rejection— how it knots the stomach and kills the rational mind.

I drop the subject of rejection during the class, but afterward my mind picks up the knitting again. My bags are kept packed. I was moving when I arrived here and I will continue moving when I leave here, I realistically sum up the situation in my mind.

To subject my mind to more useful endeavors I go over to the Brahman's hut to discuss several points on the Ramayana where Tulasi Dasa has changed the characters or action somewhat from the original Sanskrit version of Kali Dasa. I have in the back of my mind to ask his opinion about the guest book, but no opportunity arises, or rather in talking with him my mind is soon engaged in a world beyond guest books.

Now here is a startling aspect of the Ramayana. From one aspect, the whole world was put into chaos for the sake of the carrying out of a curse. Yes, the villain, Ravana, was actually a guardian of the palatial heavenly gates of Vishnu. I take the opportunity to ask the Siva Ramakrishna this question that has been bugging me.

"I have heard that Ravana was a highly evolved person, actually a Brahman. Now how did he end up the villain in such an unholy war?"

"Good question. Here is how it happened. There were two gate-keepers in Vaikunta [heaven], Jaya and Vijaya. You couldn't say that they were the highest devas [beings of light], but they were heavenly beings. One day while they were on duty, the hermit Sanaka approached the gate with the intention of paying homage to Lord Vishnu. Not realizing the spiritual statue of the unsightly sadhu. . . . You know how Indian sadhus look?"

"Oh, yes. I've been to Rishikesh, where they vie for the title of being the most outrageous looking."

"Yes, you know what I mean. Since the gatekeepers had no idea that he was a sage from his appearance, they refused his entrance. Sanaka had spent his entire life practicing tapas [austerities], including total celibacy. He was not one to be told what to do. So he cursed the gatekeepers to three lives on earth as asuras [demons]. They protested such a terrible fate, so Sanaka told them that while on earth they would receive the blessing of being killed by Lord Vishnu himself."

"So Lord Vishnu had to be born because of the words of a sadhu? Amazing!" I interject. "So that is why they were on earth, to fulfill that curse? But why did Sri Rama have to incarnate on earth for this task?"

"Remember, Nancy, there is a Rama born in each yuga."

"A Rama born in each yuga? No, I did not know that."


I eat in the kitchen in the evening. I never knew the reason why half the time the brahmachari brings my filled plate to my room and the other evenings, he calls me to the dining hut. Maybe there is no reason. Tonight a stranger is present, not eating, just hanging around. Several younger boys from the orphanage, who take turn helping in the ashram kitchen, are lined up across from me. We all eat the same food. When I start eating, I am aware that the stranger, along with boys are all staring at me. I have gotten used to eating under the eyes of an audience; at least, I pretend that I have.

After a few minutes, the brahmachari explains to me that this man has come from a nearby village in which lives the Tamil overseer of Hinduism, let's say an equivalent of a bishop. He had visited Ram Sadhu some time ago. Since then, every month he sends about eighteen pounds of various dals (dried beans), a large packet of Indian spices and a dozen coconuts to the ashram.

Upon departing from his visit, he had asked Ram Sadhu, "What can I do for you—whatever you want. You name it and it shall be done immediately."

"I have everything I need here, even more than I need. I want nothing at all, " the Sadhu replied.

Further the Swami asked him, "You lead such a peaceful life here. I have longed for such a quiet, peaceful life. And now I have all the responsibility of a big organization."

"That is your dharma [duty] in life and you must fulfill it. It is my dharma to sit quietly. We cannot exchange our destinies."

The brahmachari goes on to mention that he is not the only person who has offered Ram Sadhu the fulfillment of any wish. Another was a very wealthy lady; another a sadhu from Trichy who can change lead to gold, produce ash out of thin air, and "these kinds of things."

"Like Sai Baba."

"Yes, like that."

The stranger, who speaks no English and therefore is just an onlooker, then asks the brahmachari something.

"He is curious about you, since such a master as Ram Sadhu has accepted you as a student. He is calling you to visit his master's ashram."

"When I've found diamond, why would I go looking for gold. You said yourself that Swami sends sincere seekers here to Ram Sadhu, not the other way around."


January 4, 1991
Again there was a sunrise that outdid the recent sunsets. The water glowed a warm pink as the light fog dissipated in the light of the sun. I was not quite so dull this morning upon awakening. While I am in Pondicherry I will be able to catch up on sleep, surely that will make a difference.

I spent a normal day with yoga, pranayama, reading—my daily schedule is nicely set now. During my evening walk, I return to the nearby lily pond to pick a lovely water hyacinth. They are so beautiful, this variety has a eye of purple dotted with yellow on its upper petal. Since they are so common here, they are considered a water weed. Usha calls them the "damn sewer flowers." Nevertheless, I remain their admirer and enjoy seeing them in the ponds and drainage ditches all over the south.

Tonight dinner is brought to my room. I eat, then carry my plate over to the outdoor facet, wash it, and return it to the kitchen. The Sadhu is not out tonight, so I return to my room, close and lock the door for the night. Some time later, perhaps thirty minutes, there is a rap at the door. I am not surprised.

"When are you leaving?" asks the brahmachari.

"Tomorrow at 11:00 in the morning."

"How long will you stay in Pondicherry."

"Only one week."

"Then what is your program?"

"Ram Sadhu has told me to come back here."

"That's what I wanted to talk to you about. You see this cottage is that lady's. She usually comes and stays on Sunday, but now she is keeping away for your sake."

"I see."

"Anyway, you read the rules in the guest book—only three days stay, so you have already been here one month. So that is the most we can accommodate you. Annaji says no one can stay here permanently. You read it in the book, especially a woman. We are all men here. Some ashrams have a ladies' quarters, but we have no such facility here. If you wanted to stay outside somewhere, you could come here during the day."

"I don't think there is a suitable place outside, do you?"

"Annaji might think of something. What is your goal? Tell me that."

"I simply want a quiet place, with a holy presence, where I can do sadhana. Anything else I can do at home, can't I?"

"Well, people come here, and Swamiji always tells them to stay, calls them his son and daughter. We can't be expected to look after all these people, so we have to take on the task of sending them away."

"I see."

"So Ram Sadhu knows that you are sending me away?"

Oh, yes, he knows. But he himself would not ask you to leave. He said that if is our ashram rules, then we must be the ones to ask you to go. He said he sees all alike: man, woman or thief."

"I see."

I bolt the door behind the brahmachari. All the rejection and disappointment I've faced up to this moment in my life were just a preparation for facing this moment. Interestingly, during my evening walk I had recounted my fear, or doubt, of my ability to have enough discipline and energy to live a spiritual life. The moment of facing the fact I am less than I hoped for has arrived. Didn't I write yesterday I have no appointments with the future. The river of time flows on, carrying me along.

January 5, 1991
The river is only one-fourth full today. In a few days it will return to the few small streams flowing down a wide sandy bed as it was when I first found it. As I walk in the cool of early daylight small things cross my mind to lament: The great library I had found, inviting friends here to meet a true master, and fulfilling my dreams of really finding out firsthand what this spiritual trip is about. If I had not made plans, I would not be experiencing disappointment about fulfilling them.

After breakfast, I go over to have a talk with Siva Ramakrishna. He expresses surprise that I have been asked to leave, but he fills me in on some details that surely influenced my expulsion.

"But you did see that new 'Guest Book' that states a three-day limit for all guests?" I ask him.

"Yes, I even helped them with the spelling of the English. But that was for visitors. You were already here as a permanent resident, invited by Swamiji, that book could not apply to you."

"Well, it did apply to me. In fact, I suspect that it was created for me."

"This comes as a shock to me. Ram Sadhu was so happy to have you here. He thought that you had come all this distance seeking spiritual wisdom, so we should help you to our full capacity. He told me so, and told me to help explain any points to you since he does not feel that his English is adequate."

"But there must be so many students coming to meet such a master that it is difficult to accommodate them. The brahmachari said that so many people come that they have to ask to leave."

"No, not at all. There are very few people today who are interested in sanatana dharma [eternal wisdom]. I fear that Hindus today are only interested in going to the temple to ask the deities for favors in their material life."

"That is true, isn't it? And it is also true in Christianity, praying to God for so many things. Actually, religions were created to nurture our spiritual life; but we have completely turned them around to create them in our own 'image' to be able sustain our material life."

"So it's true even in Christianity too?" Then he returns to the matter at hand, "We hardly ever have guests; that cottage has been standing empty for months on end—waiting for you. It seemed perfect."

"But brahmachari told me that it is Amma's and that she needs it to come on the weekends."

"She built that cottage for our use, not for her use. She lives in Madras and only comes to Kumbakonam a couple of months out of the year. And as you have noted, she does not stay here when she comes. She always stays at that other ashram. We can't keep up a cottage for the one or two nights she stays here in a year, and she does not expect it."

So I bring up another issue, "Then there is the woman thing; I don't think a couple of the residents care for a woman being here. The brahmachari mentioned it."

"Nancy, in our Manusmriti [laws given by Manu] the women are given the heavier burden. You westerners interpret it negatively. If you study the smritis [Manu's words] carefully, you will find that the more intelligent and more responsible are always given the heavier burden without exception."

"Well, I did know that in relation to Brahmans. When it comes to the duties and responsibilities of caste, the Brahman has the heaviest load of duties, or, in cases of infraction of the rules, the severest punishment. So you mean that it is the same with women? More is expected of them since they are more capable. That's interesting."

"Yes, as you may know, a religious ceremony done by a wife or mother is much more effective than one performed by a priest." He pauses and then continues in a low voice, "You see, there was one other guest about a year ago. He created a problem."

"A problem?"

"Yes, you see we did have a woman living here, for quite a few years. She built a cottage for herself, where Swami Karunananda now lives, and retired here. Last year a young sadhu came. He seemed nice enough, and seemed interested in scriptural studies. He and the lady became fast friends. She would cook little snacks and treats for tea time, so he would spend some time in her cottage talking. She was like a mother to him."

"Both of them were Indians?"

"Oh, yes. He was from Madras. Although it seems he had some story about working in the foreign, perhaps the Middle East. Really, we did not question him much, that's not our purpose here."

He lowered his voice to a whisper, "One day, the young man disappeared during the night. The next morning, the lady was found dead in her bed. All her gold and diamond jewelry was missing."

"That must have been quite a blow to everyone."

"I can tell you that it was quite a blow. There was a real commotion with the police and all. However, they found no evidence of foul play. Apparently, she died of natural causes and the young man found her and took advantage of the situation to take her jewelry.

"Of course, they searched for him. As it turned out, he had visited several other ashrams and had left them all suddenly, stealing typewriters, tape recorders, and such," he concludes the story.

"Well, that certainly would influence the manager's opinion about having a woman in the ashram."

"Yes, of course. I'm afraid it has."

These new details do change my perception of the situation, but not my disappointment. Sri Siva RamaKrishna continues to assure me that Ram Sadhu had planned that I was to live here. "He had even asked me to help you in any way I could. Specifically, I should find time to answer any questions, so that you would understand the true meaning of our sanathana dharma."


When I go to tell Ram Sadhu good-bye, I simply say, "I'm leaving today for Pondicherry. You know ashram management has told me I should not return."

"Yes, I know. This ashram management. . . . I'm a sadhu I cannot get involved in these ashram management things. If I did, I would soon be a samsari [ordinary struggling person]. Please forgive me and understand."

"Anyway, I'm so grateful for the time I've spent with you. You've been very kind."

"Yes, I know you are grateful. I feel it. You know I have three daughters of my own. When I renounced, I left them and have never even written them a letter. That is the life of a sadhu."

"Yes, I understand."

My bags are packed and waiting, as I pick them up and head toward the gate, the Brahman comes out to the path to bid me farewell. The Sadhu sees him and comes hobbling out, "Let her
go—she will never be alone, for we will go with her."

I stand for a moment immersed in my feelings, my abundant gratefullness and my incredible disappointment. What is it I wanted? What is it that I think I am losing? Where do I go from here? These are questions I will have to contemplate for some time. With tears in my eyes, I take a long pause at the river gate and smile down on the stream. Sitting here on the banks of the Kauveri in the presence of a saint, I have known peace. That peace still comes back to me when I remember the clear radiant eyes of Ram Sadhu and the gentle flowing of the river.



Chapter Thirty-one

War and Peace

Back in Pondy, I am quickly catapulted into the real world. Shanta and Dilip, a married couple whom Usha and I met through Maggie, now have the cable TV channel. At last the Indians can have more than one channel. But all that's on it is CNN news about the Gulf War. I suppose war is still inevitable, given the consciousness of "human doings" in today's world. In spite of my anguish over human killing human, I have to smile as the self-righteous British—whose Empire directly created Sadam Hussein and Qaddafi—condemn Hussein for doing what they were doing all over the planet less than one hundred years ago. Well, we are certainly more civilized now. Wait a minute, the British Empire was created in the name of civilization. I think it's just the "we can dish it out, but we sure can't take it" European-supremacist attitude surfacing again.

One hundred years ago is inaccurate too. How about World War I? I recently read Michael Yardley's great biography of T.E. Lawrence in which he recounts the duplicity of the British and French in World War I in dealing with the Arabs. Interestingly, Lawrence was a first-hand witness. I love biographies and have always lamented that they are not used for our history classes instead of the traditional textbooks filled with names and dates devoid of any human sentiment. I am sure any student would understand much more about World War I if they read a couple of biographies of the key players instead of a multitude of places and dates of battles. Of course, if they read this particular book, they might think twice before they took up arms to defend their governments, and to fight against countries that have been ground down by foreign powers.

I did have some vague idea that the French and British had grabbed some countries in the Middle East for themselves after World War I, but certainly not these details. As it turns out, France and Britain signed the Sykes-Picot Treaty, stating their division of spoils at the beginning of World War I. France would get Syria, Lebanon, and the Mosul oil fields. Britain would get Mesopotamia (minus Mosul), which included Kuwait. Palestine would be declared international territory—
everyone wanted the only fertile lands in the Arabian desert. Then these Allies bribed Italy to enter the war, again with the promise of spoils: Libya (then a part of the Turkish Ottoman Empire) and retention of any colonies already occupied by Italy. In spite of the existence of their treaty, the Allies then officially promised the Arabs "self-determination" of their choice of government after the war, in exchange for their help in beating the Turks. After the victory, the only thing the French and British remembered of self-determination was their own.

However, I had no idea of a small act in the farce; that is, the extent that the British-India Office in Delhi had been involved in the duplicity. The Delhi officials had been openly feuding with the British Foreign Office in London over control of the Middle East since 1915. The officials in Delhi were concerned because the war affected the large Muslim population in India who gave their allegiance to Islam.

Picture this set up: two traditional leaders of Arabian clans battling it out over Palestine. One of them, Abdullah Hussein (grandfather of King Hussein of Jordan), was backed by the London Foreign Office. While the other contender, Ibn Saud (future king of Saudi Arabia) was backed by the Delhi. To the London Government's surprise, Delhi's man won.

Delhi and London also struggled over Mesopotamia, soon to be named Iraq. But London won there, even though formerly Mesopotamia had fallen under the jurisdiction of the British Office in Delhi. The London officials quickly installed Faisal Hussein as the ruler through the electoral system by blatantly rigging the elections. Nevertheless, the Delhi Office supplied most of the clerks for the government, so they could keep their finger in the Iraqi pie.

Considering this record of the Allies, then augmented by current economic reprisals, it seems it would be easy for a despot to convince the populace that there is a real enemy out there. I keep asking, "What are the British doing?" No news report mentions the country responsible for planting the seeds for this disaster. If Hussein is in a financial crunch, couldn't it partially be due to the ramifications of World War I and II and the Empire Era? Couldn't there be other solutions to deal with the Iraqis—with an attitude of making amends? Where did the Queen get all her wealth anyway? For starters, one could take an inventory of the crown jewels and ascertain how many of them were actually purchased! Don't our scriptures say that the sins of our fathers are visited upon us for seven generations?

I am so frustrated that all the international news we get is from CNN. Suddenly, its coverage sounds very provincial. We Americans never learned much European history, and certainly not any Middle Eastern or Asian history.

Soon I have my visa in order, so I am happy to leave the war behind and head for the Forest of Peace, the ashram of a Christian monk, Father Bede. It is truly a beautiful spot on the Kauveri River near Trichy, about 60 miles upstream from Kumbakonam. I quickly settle into the daily routine. Hardly, anyone gets up for the 5:30 a.m. morning chanting. After my pre-dawn rising in Kumbakonam, it seems easy for me. The chanting serves to wake me up for the thirty minutes of meditation that follows.

Then Father Bede arrives to lead a prayer service in his soft, gentle voice. His countenance is truly angelic; he could have been a model for one of the heavenly host in Michelangelo's frescos. By the time, he starts to speak, everyone has drifted in until the small chapel is packed. The service ends with Eucharist.

Although a scholar and intellect, Father Bede's short inspirational talks are humble and sweet, with no profound depth. Everyone always attends his talks, for just being in his presence is uplifting. I continue to go through his commentary on the Bhagavad Gita, The River of Compassion, so that gives me more material to understand his ideas.

Interestingly, Father Bede, a Brit, made a few comments on the general criticizing of the Americans that is going on among the Europeans here. He pointed out that the war was a decision of the international community including Saudi Arabia, so it was unjustifiable to blame it on the Americans. In addition, he pointed out that although he was certainly a pacifist himself, that one could hardly expect to have peace while allowing criminals a free hand. Hussein had violated international law and had been given every opportunity to rescind.

Every morning, I save some food from breakfast to go to the river to feed the fish. I wander along the broad and quiet Kauveri while chanting the Gayatri Mantra. What a difference in the river here and in Kumbakonam. Here the streamlets are almost as wide as the river bed there. From this side the bed is so broad, I cannot see the other bank. However, I find a few shallow spots to cross in knee-deep water. I walk through the maze of sand banks until I am quite out of sight of the shore. Then I strip off my top layer of clothing and lie in the deep still water of one of the pools. Unfortunately, the only place I have found water deep enough for swimming is along the bank closest to the ashram—impossible without a bathing suit and the exposure of female parts is even questionable with one.

Cranes, small brown plovers, bee catchers, plus an occasional tern and myna frequent the whole complex of streams, pools, sand banks and grassy knolls. The water is just cool enough to be very refreshing, but the coolness lasts just long enough for the quarter-mile hike back to the ashram. Usually, I go to the meditation hall to meditate, with a break for yoga if I start to feel dull. Then I take a trip over to the library to partake of all the books on the wonderful European Christian saints, the knowledge of whom is quite enlightening. They have actually described the mystical path as good as the Hindus, and with lots of similarities; for example, the description "as the river disappears into the ocean, the individual merges into the Godhead."

I sleep in a dorm-style room with seven or eight beds. Most people come through and just stay a night or two. Since this place is listed in the tour books, it is a regular stop for all European, particularly British tourists. However, one roommate, an American, plans to stay for a period of serious sadhana. Mary had just completed a year working in Pakistan helping the Afghan refugees, that is the refugee government, happily living on American aid. She says it is obvious why they were thrown out of the country: they are the greediest people imaginable. However, they are quite satisfied now, for they quickly discovered that they can suck much more out of the fount of American aid than out of some peasant dirt farmers. I cannot comprehend why Russia and Britain have been fighting over Afghanistan for centuries. Mary feels really disgusted, disgruntled and off-center after her experiences and is taking time off to spend in this peaceful atmosphere to get back on track.

Since the Gulf war continues to be escalating, the U.S. Embassy sent someone out here to post a notice that it could be dangerous for Americans to travel. Nevertheless, an American gentleman arrived last night. Judging from his business suit and his tons of luggage, I bet Mary that he was a professional photographer, planning to video-tape Father Bede. I was wrong, for the next morning in the prayer service, we spot him sitting in the front row with the Indian Fathers.

For no particular reason, other than I am inclined to want to get to know interesting people, I have a whim to meet the newly arrived Father. I usually do not drink coffee, but I go over at coffee time just to see if the Father is there. The timing is good because I arrive just at the moment that the Father does. By coincidence, I sit down by a person he knows, so he joins us.

Within moments, he and I are drawn into a profound exchange, so intense that the third person quickly drifts away. In response to his question of what is my purpose of being in India, I explain to him I am in a personal dilemma. After leaving Atheetha Ashram, I have just been stumbling around from place to place, going through the crazy situations that only India can produce. Then when it looked as I had at last found the perfect situation, I had a real disappointment. Then I go on to describe my crisis at Ram Sadhu's ashram.

"Did you feel rejection?" he questions me.

"Yes. Definitely."

"I had the same experience of rejection once when I tried to join a monastery and they refused me. I experienced terrible rejection," he shares with me.

"How did that happen?"

"I was actually a novice at a large monastery. One day for apparently no reason at all, the Abbot just told me to pack my bags and get out."

"No explanation?"

"No explanation. The Father in charge of my group even spoke up for me. He went to the Abbot and asked him for an explanation. The Father felt that I was a good student; I had always obeyed all the rules. But the Abbot wouldn't even give him a reason."

"How devastating. In one moment, one man could totally change your whole life plan. I had not vested so much time and energy into my plan."

After a few moments of silence, I continue, "I had dared think, at least momentarily, that my rambling had finally ended, that I had found something of value. So in the end I told myself, 'You really didn't deserve it after all.'"

"But that is very Christian; the 'guilt' and 'deserve' nonsense. You should feel there is something new opening up for you," he wisely advised me.

"Yes, I see your point. But first, there was the undeniable feeling, 'I didn't deserve this.'" I pause, then continue, "You know Hindus also have the same concept that what you encounter in the world is a reflection of your own mind. So you are only meeting outside what you have in your own life plan, predestined from previous actions. Now I'm not saying that I accept the theory of karma is written in stone; however, it seems to be a viable hypothesis that can help one retain equanimity through the blows of life. That's the important point: peace of mind."

For over an hour, we discussed many aspects of Hinduism, the four stages of life versus celibacy, Adi Sankaracharya and his monasteries, study of Sanskrit, and long-term visas for India. He appears very open and really wants to comprehend the Hindu view of life. He seems, like myself, to be curious to know what it would be like to look at the world through an entirely different mindset.

Sometime in the conversation, I mention that I am now collecting information on the subject of enlightenment. "Actually, once I did have a profound mystical experience. So I am also trying to figure out how that fits into the marketplace of life," I mention.

"You know I thought that you must have had a real experience when you said you were in India for three years. When I was a young man, I had an wonderful experience of ecstasy. Prior to that time, I was having a very difficult time with celibacy, but I controlled myself. Then I had a beautiful ecstasy that lasted for days. That experience has sustained me."

"I certainly would not have stayed interested in a spiritual outlook on life if I had not had such an experience. I would have lost faith long ago, for sure," I agree.

"And the longing to know that experience again is a tremendous impetus—but it is desire too. Even the wish for enlightenment is desire," he reflects.

"Definitely, but we donkeys have to have some carrot—the golden carrot, I call it. Then the time comes for dismissing even the goal, but it won't be easy."

"You know Father Bede had a tremendous experience when he was spontaneously healed from a stroke last year. He said that he felt so much love that it is impossible to describe. He's actually a different person now; everyone thinks so. Before he remained the stoic, reserved, stiff-upper-lip Brit. You cannot imagine the change in him." A thoughtful look crosses his face before he continues, "We do not know how to love. We have never really experienced it. As Father Bede mentioned in his homily last night, love is the basis for all."

I comment, "Oh, when I had that experience, I felt so much love that I could have bowed down to hug an ant. All around us is so much struggle and hardship, but through those eyes everything and everyone looked so beautiful and so perfect, even here in India—a true test."

"See, that's what I want—that love. To me that's more important than enlightenment. So I would rather have that love, even with darkness, although with light would be best."

"You do have a good point," I agree with a smile.

Father Bede continued to have lapses of memory and to feel weak, so he left this morning for the cooler temperatures of a hill station, for he is hoping it will help his condition. This means I will not get an opportunity to talk with him, even though in the course of the last couple of days I have come up with a question for him.

One night when a woman brought up the question of redemption, I was taken aback. I had really begun to comprehend and accept Christianity because of my study of Hinduism and my contact with European Christians. However, in my religious comparisons, I had entirely forgotten the "original sin—redemption" thing. Apparently, I am succeeding in my quest for a new mindset. In Hinduism, and its sister religions, Jainism and Buddhism, there is no concept of original sin. To them, our origin is divine. Yes, there is a veil that we have superimposed over that divinity, but our divinity is never touched by the veil—no matter how dirty it gets. The Hindu sages never dwelt on the sinner stuff, they always called their flock the "children of light." They were the ancestors of Bharatha, a historical king, who was of the lineage of Lord Vishnu. King Bharatha's enlightened rule is said to have endured for some twenty-seven thousand years.

The Hindus actually believe that the life on the planet is in a state of devolution, not evolution. The peaceable kingdom has already happened. King Bharatha's time would probably fall in the Silver Age, after the heavenly kingdom of the Golden Age. Third was the Bronze Age, then the Iron Age, or Kali Yuga. Yes, you guessed it, we are now in the doldrums of the Kali Yuga. This downward trend is also symbolized in the Hebrew Fall, but in Hindu thought it is a process, instead of a spontaneous occurrence, as in the Bible. In contrast, Hindu theorists consider that the creation was spontaneous and not a process as do the western scientists.

Daily I continue to walk by the river while chanting the Gayatri. It expresses such a beautiful thought, "may my actions be in sync with the highest good." After a few days, I feel that I am floating along the sandy banks. This "Forest of Peace" is in such a beautiful, quiet setting; I feel I have found the Garden of Eden right here on earth. I begin to feel the peace so profoundly that it becomes alive. So vibrant that it seems to quell everything else, like a long, broad gaze at the world, rather than a close, focused study. Swami Nirmalananda was right; it comes straight from the heart. It is just an attitude, but an attitude that is impossible to manufacture. At Pondicherry, I often felt that the silence was descending on me; but now I feel that it is spilling out of me.

With Father Bede gone, everyone is clearing out of the ashram, so I return to Pondy. There I am shocked to read a report in Newsweek (available in the library) that Bush's popularity is at an all time high because of the victory. Even the British voted Churchill out after the war. So the ole' competitive spirit brings us to celebrate victory in war, instead of lamenting the war reality. Is that all we learned from Vietnam? It's not that we do like war, we just do not like to lose wars.



Chapter Thirty-two

Gifts from Bharat

India is a "wounded civilization," as the Indian author Naipal put it. The prevalent theory in the West—that the Indian's passiveness is due to their theory of karma—is totally and completely preposterous. Karma simply means action; three-fourths of the Vedas are dedicated to methods and prayers for acting successfully in the world. Indians are passive because they have been beaten down by every barbaric race that thundered across Asia Minor, then the Arabian Sea, to loot their land of riches—so wealthy that the obsession in Europe for centuries was to find a passage to India that would avoid the heavy taxation of goods when they crossed the Arabian deserts.

While it is true the atrocities committed by their most recent British conquerors were accepted with resignation in this land where terrors of war have been relentless. But by the time they arrived, the Indians had "adjusted." A foreign influence first penetrated the area in approximately 1500 BC when the Aryans arrived. Even though they wrote poetry that praised their superior weaponry, it appears that they may have taken over the people without having to inflict much death. Alexander the Great arrived in 327 BC to conquer the northwest section. Although he did little damage because his army was battle weary, he did leave men to colonize his claim. Some of their descendants are still living in a community in some isolated mountain areas.

The serious onslaught began in the 5th century when a clan of Hun invaders arrived looking for booty. Each of the next eight centuries was highlighted by a major Muslim incursion of death, destruction and plunder. In the 10th century, the Turks reached the interior, led by the ferocious Mahmod of Gazni (an Afghan). In the 11th century, the Moslems sacked the capital of the Gupta Empire, pillaging and destroying 10,000 temples. In the 12th century, another Afghan tribe of Turks demolished Delhi to establish their capital, then extend their territory on a bloody trail all the way to Madurai in the south. In the late 14th century, Timberlane, the Turk who claimed a blood line to Genghis Khan, threw out the Turk Sultans, after sacking and ravaging Delhi again. A hundred years later, Babur's terrible armies killed thousands while again sacking Delhi. His personal claim to fame was that he would kill five enemies every five minutes.

In 1565, the last stronghold of the Hindu kings at Vijayanagar was captured and devastated—not a building or a tree remained—by an alliance of Sultans. Delhi was again raided in the mid-18th century by Nadir Shah when the Turks attempted to recapture the throne from the Moguls. He returned to Persia with vast treasures, including the Peacock Throne and Kohinoor Diamond, along with thousands of slaves.

In 1498, the Portuguese arrived, followed by the French and British. When the British won out, the devastation began in serious. There are hundreds of examples of massacres, but I will give just one: Yes, the Indians did revolt against the British once, but few lived to regret it. This first spark of independence in 1857 even produced India's Joan of Arc, the Rani (Queen) of Jhansi rode out on horseback to distinguished herself in direct battle. In spite of many similar heroic acts, the Indians lost. The Indian soldiers who survived were lashed to canons while still alive and blown to bits. How does a people fight against invaders with such a penchant for fire power and blood that they can afford to expend a canon ball to kill one person? While, on the one hand, it was just another massacre to the Indians, it was a turning point; never again could they believe that the Europeans were a superior people. The British called it a "mutiny."

You must have gotten the point—now tell me that the Indians are passive because they believe in karma. They are passive because they are intelligent. The simple truth is the conquerors that came to sack their country always had superior weaponry, while backing their brutality with sophistry. Both the Moslems and the Christians justified their sins with religious prejudices and rationalizations.

Aubrey Menon, an Indian author, wrote in his book The Space Within the Heart about his study of the Upanisads:

[My study] was to prove an insight into the hoax that all of us accept as complete living... [I realized] my life had been the laborious construct of other people, some well-intentioned, some malign, some just interfering. It has been a life of emotion invented for me to feel. It has been life designed so that I should never be my own man. . . ."

Surely, the same can be said of the nation now called India, founded and named by its foreign invaders. Bharata has been discovered and rediscovered many times in other people's terms. We know it as opulent India, decadent India, and the land of poverty. European traders vied and fought for its wealth in spices—until they discovered the diamonds. India was termed the "white man's burden," whose "benighted heathens" needed the blessing of European civilization. Considering it the wealthiest country in the world, the Persians Muslims looted it relentlessly for years. On the other hand, the ancient Greeks and Chinese visited it for its treasuries of wisdom. India has been struggling to free herself from these foreign definitions since its Independence in 1947.

I have been here over a year now, and am thinking about what I have learned about India. In the end, perhaps I came here to learn about myself. Bharat and her people have touched my heart and sensibilities in many ways. What I have recounted here is only a tiny tip of a verdant green mountain. Although the wisdom I gained will always remain with me, Bharat has given me something more, so subtle, yet so loud and clear. The true wealth is the people, their uniqueness, their faith in the face of adversity, for they include the greatest intellects, and the kindest souls. Personally, I cannot conceive how these kind and generous people will move into a future without their cultural roots. Will they dare to peel off the layers and keep what is true to their heritage as "children of light"?

Every place I have visited has given me a unique gift. Of course, the most valuable gift is my friendship with Usha. She is so intelligent, spontaneous, and bright; definitely, the support that made my lengthy stay here possible.

At Atheetha ashram, I was given the opportunity to accept the many possible ways to do one thing, and to see that all of them are just right. Whether I willingly received this gift or not is another matter, but that was the gift offered me.

In Hampi, through dear Jyothi, I was shown the true meaning of forbearance. Titiksha, forbearance, is like fearlessness. It is one of those qualities that gives complete liberation when it is lived to its limit.

Then at Biligiri-Ranga, I was able to face anger and accept contradiction. Being able to embrace what is given—without trying to change it—is also quite a perfect gift.

During my month at Kumbakonam, I received so many gifts. The Kauveri River showed me the detachment inherent in the flow of LIFE. Ram Sadhu taught me to appreciate the LIFE that surrounds me. The true understanding of LIFE will culminate when eventually my awareness expands to comprehend that LIFE within me. Siva RamaKrishna initiated me into the wisdom of traditional India and its Gayatri Mantra.

Although I experienced a most precious peace in many settings, the culmination was my stay at Shantivanam, Father Bede's Forest of Peace. Back in Pondy, I feel quite successful in my capacity to be in peace. Because of the more hectic environment, at first I could only hear the silence between blurbs of noise. As I remained alert, I began to sense the peace in spite of the noise. A deep silence is indeed spread upon the earth. The silence is always there; we could not even hear the noise if it were not for that poignant silent background.

I feel so blessed to know the peace of divine birthright—something born in our own hearts. A peace that is bought with material wealth, a peace that is fought for with weapons, a peace that is exacted through total control is not true peace at all. Even if it were peace, how long could it last? Until the car gets a dent, until the enemy gets a new weapon, until someone has the courage to speak out.

True peace will only be found in our hearts. It is always there, yet there will never be the right time or place or circumstances for it to show itself. For true peace is not dependent on time or place or circumstances. It's not dependent on anything; it's a no-thing phenomenon. It just is.
A common prayer from the Vedas is for peace and prosperity for everyone:

Praise be to all the kings who protect all their subjects
with full vigor and with righteous justice;
May the Brahmans and cows prosper;
May all the populace be ever happy.
May the rain fall always at the appropriate time,
so that the fields are full of ripe grain.
May this country be always free from agitation and disturbance.
May the Brahmans be without fear [to speak the truth].

I always have to take a deep breath when I read those last two lines. For eons the Brahmans and sages have prayed for the welfare of this country, yet no country has been as ravaged by invasion. The prayers simply did not work. Perhaps if everyone on the planet had been repeating that same prayer, then it could have been different in India. Had Bharat flourished and evolved in its natural culture, I think it could have made a difference for everyone on the planet. Prayer did fail on the external level, but an internal strength be present for the culture and religion to have endured through it all.

Even if the Indians turn from their own dharma (rules of righteousness), the ideas of their ancient rshis will persist; they are universal. We can never lose that knowledge, for, according to the rshis, human being has two birthrights: his innate divinity and the inborn knowledge of the Vedas that accompanies that divinity. Anyone who sits in silent alertness long enough will indeed rediscover the fount of knowledge called the Vedas. We are one; we are all "children of light."

One day, I am inspired to rewrite the Vedic prayer for modern times. My version goes like this:

May everyone be happy,
May everyone be peaceful,
May everyone be prosperous,
May everyone of us use our talents wisely for
our own evolution and for the benefit of others.
May my body and mind remain strong and healthy,
so that I may serve my family, my community,
and humanity faithfully until the end of my days.

May we Children of Light realize our true birthright.